Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Common Questions for beginners... here's help!
It has been a long time since I last posted an entry here.
With the preparations of the wedding and the moving in and all, we have finally settled down. More or less. heh heh...
The past few months we have been lurking around Renotalk and and found some queries that people, who just got their keys to their new home, are always asking.
Things like what I must look out for when getting a quote? What must I request for when getting my quotations? How many must I get before I sign on the dotted line.... etc etc.
If you have been following my blog, there are some guide lines that I posted in the Strategies series of articles which you can easily access on the menu bar on the right. The following article complements the Strategies series of articles.
Here, I have compiled the above queries into a simple to follow beginner's draft here. I hope it is helpful to you.
Well, to come to the stage to ask for quotations, I would ASSUME that you have sat down with your spouse and discussed about the features and fixtures that you want to have in your home. So these are the things you would want to note when approaching your contractor/ID.
There are some things you need to inform the contractor/ID when you are first requesting for your quotation.
1a)Things like changing to stainless steel (S/S) piping or copper piping for your water, you must state. Cos the costing for them is different.
1b)For things like brands of tiles, laminates, dun tell the contractor yet during the quotation. You will restrict your choices if you do. Instead, get them to quote you the psf unit pricing they are willing to go for your reno works.
1c) Sizes of fridge and washer base is better to tell them, but it is not necessary at the initial stage. This will only give them excuses to increase the cost of the floor works when they are doing the quotation. Give them the dimensions only after you have confirm the contract with them.
1d)Get them to quote you for both overlaying and replacing of the toilet tiles. Some will charge extra for removing the existing tiles. So be sure to ask them for the breakdown.
If you intend to do an overlay, do take note, in the event you want to remove/replace the overlay, the cost of hacking will be more. I dunno how they justify this, but they always say, removing of overlay tiles cost more cos need to remove two layer of tiles and cement.
In a nut shell, for the initial quotation portion, discuss FEATURES that you want. Things like:
- Floor tiles (homo, ceramic, laminates...etc) Skirting included?
- Cabinets for the various rooms, from wardrobes in the bed room to cupboards in the kitchens
- Additional works like window grills, painting...etc
- for things like laminates, paints and solid tops, ask them for their range of products on offer
- for things like tiles, ask them for the range of tiles they are willing to bear. As in, how much psf is the tiles you are allowed to choose from.
- Costing for electrical works, extra lighting points, shifting of points... etc and other things related to electrical works, tell them to at least give you a cost break down for the different things. This is especially important if you intend to put downlights and a false ceiling in your home.
During the quotation phase, just discuss the main things you want the contractor to do in your home. No need to go into specifics yet.
Once you confirm the contractor you want to engage, then you go into details like measurements, dimensions, brands you prefer...etc etc.
- then you got to do additional homework like finding out the cost of tile by going to the supplier on your own
- Getting the different laminates to test
- getting the different solid surfaces to test
2) As for the materials, always ask for the range they offer.
Then ask if you get your own preferred brand, will there be additional costs? If so, how much?
If the cost of the brand you prefer is the same as the one they offer, will they still take it for you?
ALWAYS get a quotation to do up the WHOLE house.
Take for example, you are intending to only do your master room and the kitchen... remember to get a quotation to include the other bedrooms, the living room and the feature wall for both the TV console and the storeroom.
Make sure these items are itemized. As in a separate pricing for each item. At least for each room!
This is because there is a certain price range for every type of house. I guess the contractors have a certain quota to meet as well, so they always use a price guide for the home type to do their quotation.
I have been to many contractors to know that they will quote you about the same amount even when you are doing lesser things in the home.
Itemizing the works in the quotation will also allow you to remove the un-necessary items which you do not need. So if you ask for more during your quotation, when you cut the items out, you know that you are not paying exorbitant pricing when doing the exact thing you want.
Once you get the quotation, break down all the pricing to the unit cost.
For floor, it is per-square-foot (psf).
For carpentry, it is per-foot-run (pfr)
If it is kitchen cabinets, you must clarify if the price quoted to you in based on just the bottom cabinets, top cabinets or both. This is one thing many will overlook.
For water piping, ensure that there is no limit to the length run in the home. Some contractors will quote you a very cheap price, then end up telling you, you can only run a certain length of water pipe in the home. If you want, you need to top up the difference, and this could work out to be really costly.
Next, if you dun mind, post your quotation in the forum for all to see and comment. You will be surprise the cost savings you will get when you get inputs from other home owners who had done their renovations.
After all the comparisons, then comes the payment mode. Ensure that you always get the upper hand.
What I did was to break down the payment into 5 phases.
1) 20% upon delivery of materials
2) 30% upon finishing of floor works
3) 20% upon finishing of carpentry, electrical works...etc
4) 20% upon handover
5) last 10% if there is no problems after we move in. As in all the apparent defects are completely rectified.
Remember, as long as the money is in your pocket, you have the last say. Once you finished the payment before the works are done, you have no say in how the work is going to turn out.
With the preparations of the wedding and the moving in and all, we have finally settled down. More or less. heh heh...
The past few months we have been lurking around Renotalk and and found some queries that people, who just got their keys to their new home, are always asking.
Things like what I must look out for when getting a quote? What must I request for when getting my quotations? How many must I get before I sign on the dotted line.... etc etc.
If you have been following my blog, there are some guide lines that I posted in the Strategies series of articles which you can easily access on the menu bar on the right. The following article complements the Strategies series of articles.
Here, I have compiled the above queries into a simple to follow beginner's draft here. I hope it is helpful to you.
Well, to come to the stage to ask for quotations, I would ASSUME that you have sat down with your spouse and discussed about the features and fixtures that you want to have in your home. So these are the things you would want to note when approaching your contractor/ID.
There are some things you need to inform the contractor/ID when you are first requesting for your quotation.
1a)Things like changing to stainless steel (S/S) piping or copper piping for your water, you must state. Cos the costing for them is different.
1b)For things like brands of tiles, laminates, dun tell the contractor yet during the quotation. You will restrict your choices if you do. Instead, get them to quote you the psf unit pricing they are willing to go for your reno works.
1c) Sizes of fridge and washer base is better to tell them, but it is not necessary at the initial stage. This will only give them excuses to increase the cost of the floor works when they are doing the quotation. Give them the dimensions only after you have confirm the contract with them.
1d)Get them to quote you for both overlaying and replacing of the toilet tiles. Some will charge extra for removing the existing tiles. So be sure to ask them for the breakdown.
If you intend to do an overlay, do take note, in the event you want to remove/replace the overlay, the cost of hacking will be more. I dunno how they justify this, but they always say, removing of overlay tiles cost more cos need to remove two layer of tiles and cement.
In a nut shell, for the initial quotation portion, discuss FEATURES that you want. Things like:
- Floor tiles (homo, ceramic, laminates...etc) Skirting included?
- Cabinets for the various rooms, from wardrobes in the bed room to cupboards in the kitchens
- Additional works like window grills, painting...etc
- for things like laminates, paints and solid tops, ask them for their range of products on offer
- for things like tiles, ask them for the range of tiles they are willing to bear. As in, how much psf is the tiles you are allowed to choose from.
- Costing for electrical works, extra lighting points, shifting of points... etc and other things related to electrical works, tell them to at least give you a cost break down for the different things. This is especially important if you intend to put downlights and a false ceiling in your home.
During the quotation phase, just discuss the main things you want the contractor to do in your home. No need to go into specifics yet.
Once you confirm the contractor you want to engage, then you go into details like measurements, dimensions, brands you prefer...etc etc.
- then you got to do additional homework like finding out the cost of tile by going to the supplier on your own
- Getting the different laminates to test
- getting the different solid surfaces to test
2) As for the materials, always ask for the range they offer.
Then ask if you get your own preferred brand, will there be additional costs? If so, how much?
If the cost of the brand you prefer is the same as the one they offer, will they still take it for you?
ALWAYS get a quotation to do up the WHOLE house.
Take for example, you are intending to only do your master room and the kitchen... remember to get a quotation to include the other bedrooms, the living room and the feature wall for both the TV console and the storeroom.
Make sure these items are itemized. As in a separate pricing for each item. At least for each room!
This is because there is a certain price range for every type of house. I guess the contractors have a certain quota to meet as well, so they always use a price guide for the home type to do their quotation.
I have been to many contractors to know that they will quote you about the same amount even when you are doing lesser things in the home.
Itemizing the works in the quotation will also allow you to remove the un-necessary items which you do not need. So if you ask for more during your quotation, when you cut the items out, you know that you are not paying exorbitant pricing when doing the exact thing you want.
Once you get the quotation, break down all the pricing to the unit cost.
For floor, it is per-square-foot (psf).
For carpentry, it is per-foot-run (pfr)
If it is kitchen cabinets, you must clarify if the price quoted to you in based on just the bottom cabinets, top cabinets or both. This is one thing many will overlook.
For water piping, ensure that there is no limit to the length run in the home. Some contractors will quote you a very cheap price, then end up telling you, you can only run a certain length of water pipe in the home. If you want, you need to top up the difference, and this could work out to be really costly.
Next, if you dun mind, post your quotation in the forum for all to see and comment. You will be surprise the cost savings you will get when you get inputs from other home owners who had done their renovations.
After all the comparisons, then comes the payment mode. Ensure that you always get the upper hand.
What I did was to break down the payment into 5 phases.
1) 20% upon delivery of materials
2) 30% upon finishing of floor works
3) 20% upon finishing of carpentry, electrical works...etc
4) 20% upon handover
5) last 10% if there is no problems after we move in. As in all the apparent defects are completely rectified.
Remember, as long as the money is in your pocket, you have the last say. Once you finished the payment before the works are done, you have no say in how the work is going to turn out.
Tuesday, December 26, 2006
A small message of appreciation to all my readers
First of all, A MERRY CHRISTMAS and A HAPPY NEW YEAR 2007 to all my readers!
I must apologize for my long absence from updating this blog. Ever since the handover of the home, we have been nothing but busy with our ROM preparations, furniture shopping, accessorizing the home and finding that elusive, plush and comfortable, sofa! :D
But all that is behind us now. We are happily settled down in our new home, and I am now preparing for my next adventure… a wedding blog! Heh heh… hopefully, it will be as useful as this blog for all who are preparing the next phase of their life.
I will continue to update this blog with the remainder of the articles planned before my absence… so that it will be a complete start till finish for setting up a new home and it will include lighting advices, bedding, appliances and some of the smaller items like curtains will also be featured. So Look Out for the updated articles!
I must apologize for my long absence from updating this blog. Ever since the handover of the home, we have been nothing but busy with our ROM preparations, furniture shopping, accessorizing the home and finding that elusive, plush and comfortable, sofa! :D
But all that is behind us now. We are happily settled down in our new home, and I am now preparing for my next adventure… a wedding blog! Heh heh… hopefully, it will be as useful as this blog for all who are preparing the next phase of their life.
I will continue to update this blog with the remainder of the articles planned before my absence… so that it will be a complete start till finish for setting up a new home and it will include lighting advices, bedding, appliances and some of the smaller items like curtains will also be featured. So Look Out for the updated articles!
Thursday, September 28, 2006
Setting up a kitchen - Hobs and Hoods
The cooker is definitely the next must have in the kitchen. Now a days, with the smaller and poorer ventilated kitchens, the hood is also another must have.
With the improvement in technology and reduction of cost of manufacturing, the cooker hob is becoming popular. A quick tour of the City Gas show room at Dhoby Gaut will offer you a glimpse of the many brands and designs in the market today.
Cooker hobs and hoods are usually offered as a pair in packages. These are usually good deals available but a mix and match of the hood and hobs are also available.
Hobs
Normally the most used appliance in any kitchen. There are many types of hobs ranging from ceramic induction hobs with their slim design and scratch resistant wipe-clean surface to the traditional gas hobs that we are familiar with. Gas Hobs provide instant control of the heat and are a must-have in most local kitchen.
Given the electrical requirement of the ceramic induction hobs, one is likely to need some modification to the power point required to power the induction hob. These hobs are usually more costly due to the design and the material used to manufacture them. We did not do much research on these hobs and will not be able to discuss much the details of these hobs.
Hobs now-a-days come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, and some of the designs are pretty interesting to look at.
One thing to note when buying a hob, is the dimension. One has to bear in mind that these appliances are prone to wear and tear and have to be replaced sometime in the future. So buying a size that is common to most of the brands will reduce the headaches when it is time to replace them.
Of course, if you really like a particular hob cos it goes very well with the design of your kitchen, no one is going to stop you from purchasing it. It is just an advisable, in our humble opinion to get the common size when viewed in the long term.
The common size that we see so far between the brands are usually the 860x500 mm sized hobs and the cut outs for this particular size varies only a few millimeters, so getting a replacement in future is not going to be a big hassle.
Do also take note of the source of gas you are using in your kitchen. There are two types of fixtures, one for the City Gas and the other is for the normal LPG gas. Remember to inform the sales person when you are making the purchase so that the correct one is delivered to you.
Cooker hobs usually comes in glass or stainless steel.
Glass hobs are easy to maintain and aesthetically good to look at and easy to blend into many kitchen designs today.
The functionality are the same as the stainless steel and there is little difference between them other than the glass top. If you are intending to purchase a glass hob, the standard is tempered glass but do ensure that the glass is tempered.
Burners
The burners also come in a variety of material and each has its own pros and cons. Some prefer the look of certain material over others, while some will prefer durability over looks. So depending on your priorities, the different material will also command different pricing. Of course, branding plays a big part as well.
Brass
This metal is gold in color. Some burners come coated with colors to suit certain designs and looks of the hob. Sometimes, they are chromed silver to achieve a better look with the stainless steel hobs.
Very resistant to corrosion. Anti rust, so there is no worry about the burner caps corroding away with long term usage.
Chrome
The silver color tends to turn bluish and purplish when used and constant cleaning required to keep it gleaming and shiny. As durable as brass, they are tough and looks particularly good when new. Also resistant to corrosion. Anti rust, so there is no worry about the burner caps corroding away with long term usage
Cast Iron
Looks really good on a hob. Give a very solid look and feel to the overall design of the hob. Prone to rusting if not properly maintained. Rough surface finishing makes it a little more cumbersome to clean when spills occurs. Will wear thin with prolong usage.
Enamel coated Cast Iron
Similar to Cast iron burner caps. As long as the enamel coat is not damaged, this material will be much easier to clean and maintain compared to Cast Iron.
Hoods
An efficient cooker hood is essential in preventing condensation, grease and cooking odors from circulating freely in the kitchen. The common type of cooker hoods can be ducted or re-circulated, depending on the way the kitchen is designed.
Ducted cooker hoods has an exhaust pipe that links the hood and expels the fumes directly outside the home. Usually not applicable to high rise units like our HDB and condo flats. More for landed properties.
The common one used are the re-circulated hoods, where the fumes are filtered and the exhaust expelled back to the kitchen.
The cooker hoods are usually available in stainless steel or aluminum and they come in various widths of 600mm, 700mm or 900mm. The standard features that come with a cooker hood are typically variable speeds of suction and a powerful illumination to brighten up the cooking area. The controls allow you to vary the rate of extraction depending on how much cooking you are doing.
Look at the suction power of the hood. Don't just read the data printed on the brochures... do a test if possible.
what is written on the brochures usually states the suction power before the installation of the charcoal filters, so it is usually more powerful than it actually is when the whole setup is installed in your home. Get a piece of cardboard to test. Turn the hood on and let the cardboard be sucked to the filter. Try to remove the cardboard. You can feel the suction of the cardboard to the hood when doing so. This way, you can discern whether the suction is good or not. Do a few test with various brands and models and you will be able to decide which hood is good for your needs.
The cooker hoods generally comes in two forms... chimney and slim hoods.
Chimney hoods
Like the name suggest, there is a short chimney from the hood to guide filtered fumes out at a higher location to prevent them from directly blowing back at your hair as and when you are cooking.
Slim hoods
These hoods are designed to be slim to maximize the space in the kitchen. Not as powerful as chimney hoods, they do a pretty decent job in filtering cooking fumes.
Charcoal filter
Its purpose is mainly to reduce the smells of the fumes that are being passed through the hood, thus reducing the smells in the kitchen when the air is expelled out at the exhaust. This filter has to be changed at least once a year for regular cooking, twice if you are a frequent cook.
Oil Filter
Usually the metal plates that cover the hood that has to be removed before you can view the inside of the hood to access the charcoal filter and motor. This filters also come in a variety of design, specific to the brands they are made for. They come in various thickness depending on how many layers of wire mesh is used. Most come in three to four layers and are sufficient for normal use in a typical kitchen.
Oil Reservoir
Some models boast of a small cup or container that collects the oil from the cooking fumes. This is additional feature which I personally think is cumbersome, cos the container has to be constantly cleared away so that the oil collected do not harden and start to smell when left alone.
Prev:Setting up a kitchen - Sinks
With the improvement in technology and reduction of cost of manufacturing, the cooker hob is becoming popular. A quick tour of the City Gas show room at Dhoby Gaut will offer you a glimpse of the many brands and designs in the market today.
Cooker hobs and hoods are usually offered as a pair in packages. These are usually good deals available but a mix and match of the hood and hobs are also available.
Hobs
Normally the most used appliance in any kitchen. There are many types of hobs ranging from ceramic induction hobs with their slim design and scratch resistant wipe-clean surface to the traditional gas hobs that we are familiar with. Gas Hobs provide instant control of the heat and are a must-have in most local kitchen.
Given the electrical requirement of the ceramic induction hobs, one is likely to need some modification to the power point required to power the induction hob. These hobs are usually more costly due to the design and the material used to manufacture them. We did not do much research on these hobs and will not be able to discuss much the details of these hobs.
Hobs now-a-days come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, and some of the designs are pretty interesting to look at.
One thing to note when buying a hob, is the dimension. One has to bear in mind that these appliances are prone to wear and tear and have to be replaced sometime in the future. So buying a size that is common to most of the brands will reduce the headaches when it is time to replace them.
Of course, if you really like a particular hob cos it goes very well with the design of your kitchen, no one is going to stop you from purchasing it. It is just an advisable, in our humble opinion to get the common size when viewed in the long term.
The common size that we see so far between the brands are usually the 860x500 mm sized hobs and the cut outs for this particular size varies only a few millimeters, so getting a replacement in future is not going to be a big hassle.
Do also take note of the source of gas you are using in your kitchen. There are two types of fixtures, one for the City Gas and the other is for the normal LPG gas. Remember to inform the sales person when you are making the purchase so that the correct one is delivered to you.
Cooker hobs usually comes in glass or stainless steel.
Glass hobs are easy to maintain and aesthetically good to look at and easy to blend into many kitchen designs today.
The functionality are the same as the stainless steel and there is little difference between them other than the glass top. If you are intending to purchase a glass hob, the standard is tempered glass but do ensure that the glass is tempered.
Burners
The burners also come in a variety of material and each has its own pros and cons. Some prefer the look of certain material over others, while some will prefer durability over looks. So depending on your priorities, the different material will also command different pricing. Of course, branding plays a big part as well.
Brass
This metal is gold in color. Some burners come coated with colors to suit certain designs and looks of the hob. Sometimes, they are chromed silver to achieve a better look with the stainless steel hobs.
Very resistant to corrosion. Anti rust, so there is no worry about the burner caps corroding away with long term usage.
Chrome
The silver color tends to turn bluish and purplish when used and constant cleaning required to keep it gleaming and shiny. As durable as brass, they are tough and looks particularly good when new. Also resistant to corrosion. Anti rust, so there is no worry about the burner caps corroding away with long term usage
Cast Iron
Looks really good on a hob. Give a very solid look and feel to the overall design of the hob. Prone to rusting if not properly maintained. Rough surface finishing makes it a little more cumbersome to clean when spills occurs. Will wear thin with prolong usage.
Enamel coated Cast Iron
Similar to Cast iron burner caps. As long as the enamel coat is not damaged, this material will be much easier to clean and maintain compared to Cast Iron.
Hoods
An efficient cooker hood is essential in preventing condensation, grease and cooking odors from circulating freely in the kitchen. The common type of cooker hoods can be ducted or re-circulated, depending on the way the kitchen is designed.
Ducted cooker hoods has an exhaust pipe that links the hood and expels the fumes directly outside the home. Usually not applicable to high rise units like our HDB and condo flats. More for landed properties.
The common one used are the re-circulated hoods, where the fumes are filtered and the exhaust expelled back to the kitchen.
The cooker hoods are usually available in stainless steel or aluminum and they come in various widths of 600mm, 700mm or 900mm. The standard features that come with a cooker hood are typically variable speeds of suction and a powerful illumination to brighten up the cooking area. The controls allow you to vary the rate of extraction depending on how much cooking you are doing.
Look at the suction power of the hood. Don't just read the data printed on the brochures... do a test if possible.
what is written on the brochures usually states the suction power before the installation of the charcoal filters, so it is usually more powerful than it actually is when the whole setup is installed in your home. Get a piece of cardboard to test. Turn the hood on and let the cardboard be sucked to the filter. Try to remove the cardboard. You can feel the suction of the cardboard to the hood when doing so. This way, you can discern whether the suction is good or not. Do a few test with various brands and models and you will be able to decide which hood is good for your needs.
The cooker hoods generally comes in two forms... chimney and slim hoods.
Chimney hoods
Like the name suggest, there is a short chimney from the hood to guide filtered fumes out at a higher location to prevent them from directly blowing back at your hair as and when you are cooking.
Slim hoods
These hoods are designed to be slim to maximize the space in the kitchen. Not as powerful as chimney hoods, they do a pretty decent job in filtering cooking fumes.
Charcoal filter
Its purpose is mainly to reduce the smells of the fumes that are being passed through the hood, thus reducing the smells in the kitchen when the air is expelled out at the exhaust. This filter has to be changed at least once a year for regular cooking, twice if you are a frequent cook.
Oil Filter
Usually the metal plates that cover the hood that has to be removed before you can view the inside of the hood to access the charcoal filter and motor. This filters also come in a variety of design, specific to the brands they are made for. They come in various thickness depending on how many layers of wire mesh is used. Most come in three to four layers and are sufficient for normal use in a typical kitchen.
Oil Reservoir
Some models boast of a small cup or container that collects the oil from the cooking fumes. This is additional feature which I personally think is cumbersome, cos the container has to be constantly cleared away so that the oil collected do not harden and start to smell when left alone.
Prev:Setting up a kitchen - Sinks
Setting up a kitchen - Sinks
hmm... once most of the carpentry is up, it is time to look at accessories like hood and hob, sink and taps and stainless steel accessories that usually come with the setting up of a functional kitchen
The kitchen sink is a must have in every kitchen and there are many sink and tap, suited for every kind of kitchen, available in the market.
The most commonly used ones are the stainless steel sinks that we grew up with. There are also sinks that are made of different material to suit different types of designs and preferences.
We have came across a variety of sinks during our search and we will discuss those that are commonly available here.
Sink mounting
The are only two ways to mount the sink, on top of the kitchen counter top or under it... appropriately termed top mount and under mount.
Top mount
The sink sit in measured custom-shaped holes roughly cut in the kitchen top and are suspended by their rim. The rim then inherently forms a fairly close seal with the top surface of the countertop.
Under mount
Most any sink can be undermounted. The main requirement is adequate support so that the top of it is flush or slightly lower than your 3/4" kitchen top.
Undermount sinks typically have a large, flat, often thinner rim with an unfinished edge.
The edge of the countertop material is exposed at the hole created for the sink (and so must be a carefully polished to a smooth finished). The sink is then clamped to the bottom of the material from below. Silicone-based sealants are used to assure a waterproof joint between the sink and the countertop material creating a contemporary look to the kitchen overall design.
Sink configuration
There are actually many configuration for sinks today as compared to our mums and dad's time. They come in single bowl, double bowl, corner single or double bowl are the common ones you will come across when searching for your sink to suit the needs and the design of your kitchen.
Do take note of the measurement when selecting a sink. The length, width and even the depth of the bowl will determine how much allowance your carpenter has to give when customizing your kitchen cabinets.
Sink material
The kitchen sink typically comes in a variety of material, the common ones found in the local market are stainless steel, granite. There are, however, other materials that are used and can be customized for your kitchen if requested.
Stainless Steel Sink
We always hear of 18/8 grade of stainless steel... what 18/8 grade Stainless is? What do the numbers represent?
18/8 stainless steel usually indicates composition of chromium, nickel and iron used to manufacture that particular sink. This composite contains 18% chromium, 8% nickel and the remainder is iron. It does however also contain other elements, but at very low levels. Other common designations include 301, 302, and 304 stainless steel, to differentiate the different trace amounts of carbon, usually <0.1%, to make the steel tougher.
This 18/8 grade of stainless steel is common and is widely available and relatively cheap. It also gives a great finish when electro-polished. This type of stainless steel is usually prone to surface damage like scratches.
There is little overall difference in corrosion resistance among the 18/8 grade, but slight differences in chemical composition do make certain grades more resistant than others against particular chemicals or atmospheres.
Granite Sink
Comes in a variety of colours and configuration. Hard rock granite is heat, stain, scratch and chip resistant. The uniform color of the granite also makes imperfections harder to be noticed. With the polished finish of the granite sink, they are easy to clean and maintain.
Granite sinks offer definite functional advantages in addition to their beautiful appearance. Mostly used for aesthetics. The most obvious reason for deciding on a granite sink is that it is usually recessed into the countertop, blending beautifully with a granite counter and are a perfect complement to the warm, inviting, yet elegant look designers strive for.
Custom Solid surface sinks
Similar to granite sinks, but are custom made to the solid surface you are installing in the kitchen.
Solid-surface materials allow sinks to be made of the same material and color as the kitchen top selected. These sinks can then easily be adhered to the underside of the countertop material and the joint sanded flat, creating the usual invisible joint and completely eliminating any dirt-catching seam between the sink and the countertop.
Prev:Kitchen Tops
Next: Setting up a kitchen - Hobs and Hoods
The kitchen sink is a must have in every kitchen and there are many sink and tap, suited for every kind of kitchen, available in the market.
The most commonly used ones are the stainless steel sinks that we grew up with. There are also sinks that are made of different material to suit different types of designs and preferences.
We have came across a variety of sinks during our search and we will discuss those that are commonly available here.
Sink mounting
The are only two ways to mount the sink, on top of the kitchen counter top or under it... appropriately termed top mount and under mount.
Top mount
The sink sit in measured custom-shaped holes roughly cut in the kitchen top and are suspended by their rim. The rim then inherently forms a fairly close seal with the top surface of the countertop.
Under mount
Most any sink can be undermounted. The main requirement is adequate support so that the top of it is flush or slightly lower than your 3/4" kitchen top.
Undermount sinks typically have a large, flat, often thinner rim with an unfinished edge.
The edge of the countertop material is exposed at the hole created for the sink (and so must be a carefully polished to a smooth finished). The sink is then clamped to the bottom of the material from below. Silicone-based sealants are used to assure a waterproof joint between the sink and the countertop material creating a contemporary look to the kitchen overall design.
Sink configuration
There are actually many configuration for sinks today as compared to our mums and dad's time. They come in single bowl, double bowl, corner single or double bowl are the common ones you will come across when searching for your sink to suit the needs and the design of your kitchen.
Do take note of the measurement when selecting a sink. The length, width and even the depth of the bowl will determine how much allowance your carpenter has to give when customizing your kitchen cabinets.
Sink material
The kitchen sink typically comes in a variety of material, the common ones found in the local market are stainless steel, granite. There are, however, other materials that are used and can be customized for your kitchen if requested.
Stainless Steel Sink
We always hear of 18/8 grade of stainless steel... what 18/8 grade Stainless is? What do the numbers represent?
18/8 stainless steel usually indicates composition of chromium, nickel and iron used to manufacture that particular sink. This composite contains 18% chromium, 8% nickel and the remainder is iron. It does however also contain other elements, but at very low levels. Other common designations include 301, 302, and 304 stainless steel, to differentiate the different trace amounts of carbon, usually <0.1%, to make the steel tougher.
This 18/8 grade of stainless steel is common and is widely available and relatively cheap. It also gives a great finish when electro-polished. This type of stainless steel is usually prone to surface damage like scratches.
There is little overall difference in corrosion resistance among the 18/8 grade, but slight differences in chemical composition do make certain grades more resistant than others against particular chemicals or atmospheres.
Granite Sink
Comes in a variety of colours and configuration. Hard rock granite is heat, stain, scratch and chip resistant. The uniform color of the granite also makes imperfections harder to be noticed. With the polished finish of the granite sink, they are easy to clean and maintain.
Granite sinks offer definite functional advantages in addition to their beautiful appearance. Mostly used for aesthetics. The most obvious reason for deciding on a granite sink is that it is usually recessed into the countertop, blending beautifully with a granite counter and are a perfect complement to the warm, inviting, yet elegant look designers strive for.
Custom Solid surface sinks
Similar to granite sinks, but are custom made to the solid surface you are installing in the kitchen.
Solid-surface materials allow sinks to be made of the same material and color as the kitchen top selected. These sinks can then easily be adhered to the underside of the countertop material and the joint sanded flat, creating the usual invisible joint and completely eliminating any dirt-catching seam between the sink and the countertop.
Prev:Kitchen Tops
Next: Setting up a kitchen - Hobs and Hoods
Wednesday, September 20, 2006
Air-con... Trunking
This is a common question asked by many in the forums... and thought it would be approiate to do a write up on this.
Trunking is the general term used for the white casing that is used to hide the insulation and copper pipes and water pipes that connects your compressor to your air-con unit (fan coils) on the wall.
Due to the different layout of each home and the postion of the fan coils, there is a need to plan the trunking to achieve a reduction of the unsightly looking casing and at the same time optimizing the length of the gas pipes to prolong the life of your air-con. This is because the longer your trunking (esp the copper pipes) is, the harder your compressor has to work to bring the cool air to your fan coils and draw the warm gas back, the shorter the life span of the compressor.
The procedures of installing the aircon is usually done this way:
1) Copper pipe and insulation
2) Water Pipe (if done separately from the copper piping )
3) The air-con fan coils and compressor
Depending on where you run the trunking, the contractor usually will make a minium of two trips to install your air-con, one for the trunking and the other for the system itself.
The first trip to install all the necessary trunking, then your painter can paint over them, including the area behind the air-con fan coils. On the second trip, they install the fan coils and compressor. Doing it this way will ensure that your no part of your brand new air-con will be painted by accident, and the finishing touches to the trunking is nicer looking when painted over with the same colors as your wall.
This of course is not compulsory, but a norm. If you are implementing a complicated theme, you may want to discuss with your air-con contractor to spilt the installation to more days.
There are various ways for the trunking to be routed. How you select will determine when the trunking can be installed.
If you are running your trunking all along the floor above the skirting, then the copper pipes and water pipes can only be installed after the flooring and skirting is done.
If you are thinking of hiding some of your air-con trunking behind the false ceiling first, then the trunking has to be done before your cornice/false ceiling man comes to install the false ceiling and L-boxes.
Normally, the air-con contractor will plan your trunking route with both the water pipe and the copper gas pipes in the same casing. You also have the option of running them separately, depending on the lay out and the trunk route plan of your unit as well.
The only way to know is to look at the floor plan, know where the overhead beams are, coupled with the renovation theme to plan your trunk route.
Regarding the insulation used, there are many types of insulation available in the market... and there is a very good write up on which thickness to choose from this site Singapore air-con.blogspot.com.
Again, which insulation you use and whether there is a limitation to how thick the insulation can be used in your home, will depend on the unit. For example, if you are using a System 4 air-con, and all your rooms are very far from the air-con ledge, the biggest 4 by 2 inch casing may not be able to contain the 1/2 inch insulation for all the gas pipes, there may be a need to downgrade it to the 1/4 inch insulation so that all the copper pipes can fit into one casing.
This has to be discussed in detail with your air-con contractor on site so that a good trunking route can be achieve.
Related:
Air-con... How to select?
Air-con... A rough guide
Next: Carpentry...
Trunking is the general term used for the white casing that is used to hide the insulation and copper pipes and water pipes that connects your compressor to your air-con unit (fan coils) on the wall.
Due to the different layout of each home and the postion of the fan coils, there is a need to plan the trunking to achieve a reduction of the unsightly looking casing and at the same time optimizing the length of the gas pipes to prolong the life of your air-con. This is because the longer your trunking (esp the copper pipes) is, the harder your compressor has to work to bring the cool air to your fan coils and draw the warm gas back, the shorter the life span of the compressor.
The procedures of installing the aircon is usually done this way:
1) Copper pipe and insulation
2) Water Pipe (if done separately from the copper piping )
3) The air-con fan coils and compressor
Depending on where you run the trunking, the contractor usually will make a minium of two trips to install your air-con, one for the trunking and the other for the system itself.
The first trip to install all the necessary trunking, then your painter can paint over them, including the area behind the air-con fan coils. On the second trip, they install the fan coils and compressor. Doing it this way will ensure that your no part of your brand new air-con will be painted by accident, and the finishing touches to the trunking is nicer looking when painted over with the same colors as your wall.
This of course is not compulsory, but a norm. If you are implementing a complicated theme, you may want to discuss with your air-con contractor to spilt the installation to more days.
There are various ways for the trunking to be routed. How you select will determine when the trunking can be installed.
If you are running your trunking all along the floor above the skirting, then the copper pipes and water pipes can only be installed after the flooring and skirting is done.
If you are thinking of hiding some of your air-con trunking behind the false ceiling first, then the trunking has to be done before your cornice/false ceiling man comes to install the false ceiling and L-boxes.
Normally, the air-con contractor will plan your trunking route with both the water pipe and the copper gas pipes in the same casing. You also have the option of running them separately, depending on the lay out and the trunk route plan of your unit as well.
The only way to know is to look at the floor plan, know where the overhead beams are, coupled with the renovation theme to plan your trunk route.
Regarding the insulation used, there are many types of insulation available in the market... and there is a very good write up on which thickness to choose from this site Singapore air-con.blogspot.com.
Again, which insulation you use and whether there is a limitation to how thick the insulation can be used in your home, will depend on the unit. For example, if you are using a System 4 air-con, and all your rooms are very far from the air-con ledge, the biggest 4 by 2 inch casing may not be able to contain the 1/2 inch insulation for all the gas pipes, there may be a need to downgrade it to the 1/4 inch insulation so that all the copper pipes can fit into one casing.
This has to be discussed in detail with your air-con contractor on site so that a good trunking route can be achieve.
Related:
Air-con... How to select?
Air-con... A rough guide
Next: Carpentry...
Wednesday, September 13, 2006
Kitchen Tops – Post Form, Solid surface or Granite?
Finally, after a long period of busy work schedules, we can get back to sharing information on renovation.
Kitchen tops... This is one of the headaches when it comes to kitchen customization. Dating back to our grandmother’s time, there are a few types of surface top that is commonly used in the kitchen and each has its own pros and cons.
Again, one has to take into consideration the kind of usage in the kitchen. Depending on whether you are a frequent cook or just doing the occasional preparation of a feast, the kind of worktop you select will affect the costing of your total renovation quotation.
Post Form
This is the most common in yester years due to its cost. It is made of wood and covered in a laminate of your choice. They are scratch resistance and require minimal maintenance. There are a wide variety of colors to choose from. With the advancement of technology, the newer ranges of laminates are getting better, with some ranges being able to emulate the look and feel of natural stone or metals.
Post forms are made of wood, and are prone to warping if spills not quickly removed and the affected area dried. With good and proper maintenance, post form tops can last a life time.
Homogeneous tiles, Polished top
A man made material created to be as tough as granite. A much cheaper alternative to using natural stones. An updated version of the ceremic tiled top of our mother's era. This material has a wider range of effects/designs and colors to suit any kitchen theme. Depending on the texture of tiles chosen, it can be polished to produce a reflective shine like those of a mirror and usually can last longer than the shine of marble.
In an event of a breakage (due to fallen objects), unlike ceramics, Homogeneous tiles will not show a tile base/body of a different color. Patterns/designs are more subtle and predictable, without the ugly crack lines and spots usually found in natural stones. Homogeneous tiles has a much lower water absorption rate and higher density.
Depending on the skill of the tiler, tiles laid may not be even. Cos it is a synthetic material, it is not possible to polish/grind to make the gaps between slaps to give the seamless look. Warpage may also occur during the process of manufacturing, but this can be overcome by buying from better established companies/brands.
MARBLE
Marble is a natural hard stone that comes in a variety of shades and hue, from off-white to brown, gray or pink and is able to create a timeless look. Its flat, smooth surface which can be grinded to make it level, making the joining lines almost invisible, making it look as if only one piece of material is used the kitchen.
Cool to the touch, especially suitable for people who are doing a lot of pastry baking. *smiles*
Marble is expensive! It requires a lot of maintenance, constantly keeping it clean and free from chemicals and acids. Although hard, they are softer than granite, thus more prone to scratches. Easily repaired with a fresh polish. Porous by nature, marble stains easily when spills are not cleaned up immediately.
GRANITE
The hardest stone used for kitchen work top, making it durable to wear and tear. Granite is a highly polished stone, making it easy to cleaned and maintain. Cool to the touch, especially suitable for people who are doing a lot of pastry baking.
Depending on the origin of the stone, it can contain reflective crystals, thus providing a more glamorous overall look of the home. Usually comes in darker and richer tones, well suited for people who prefer dramatic designs.
The only con we could think of, granite tops are expensive, prices ranks a close second to Marble.
The most popular granites these days are INDIA and CHINA granites.
India Granites has color tone, which are much darker and richer, with more sparkers/ gold dust/ more reflective. They are more inconsistent in color tone and veins/ patterns and are preferred by people who appreciate the irregularity of natural stones. They are denser than china granite and therefore suitable for heavy-duty usage.
China Granites are much lighter and therefore more accepted by homeowners. The price of China granite is only 1/3 when compared to India granites. The pattern and color tone of China granite is lighter, more constant and have less variation as compared to India granite.
Solid Surface
Solid surfaces are the most common and versatile material used in kitchens of today. They are low maintenance and provide great aesthetics to any kitchen they are installed in. Being a man-made material, they come in a wide range of colors, giving a designer greater flexibility when choosing a theme for the kitchen. They are not porous, thus resistant to staining caused by spills. Like marble, they can be polished to a very smooth level, reducing the look of any joint lines or grout, achieving the illusion that only one main piece of material is used for the kitchen top. Being man-made also allows it to be mould into various shape and sizes, giving the owner more choices in the design of the kitchen worktop.
The only con in this material, it is prone to scratches. But this can be easily rectified, by giving the solid surface a fresh polish to restore it show room shine.
There are numerous brands, each having its own advantage and cons when making a comparison between the brands. Solid surface are mainly made up of epoxy and acrylic. Acrylic being the more resistant component in solid surfaces, the higher the percentage used, the better the top. This of course will naturally increase the price, with the better brands costing as much as natural stones. So the next time your ID quote you a price that you think is too cheap or too expensive for a solid top, in your opinion, look at the composite of the epoxy and acrylic before passing any judgment.
Prev: Carpentry... Trimmings
Next: Setting up a kitchen - Sinks
Kitchen tops... This is one of the headaches when it comes to kitchen customization. Dating back to our grandmother’s time, there are a few types of surface top that is commonly used in the kitchen and each has its own pros and cons.
Again, one has to take into consideration the kind of usage in the kitchen. Depending on whether you are a frequent cook or just doing the occasional preparation of a feast, the kind of worktop you select will affect the costing of your total renovation quotation.
Post Form
This is the most common in yester years due to its cost. It is made of wood and covered in a laminate of your choice. They are scratch resistance and require minimal maintenance. There are a wide variety of colors to choose from. With the advancement of technology, the newer ranges of laminates are getting better, with some ranges being able to emulate the look and feel of natural stone or metals.
Post forms are made of wood, and are prone to warping if spills not quickly removed and the affected area dried. With good and proper maintenance, post form tops can last a life time.
Homogeneous tiles, Polished top
A man made material created to be as tough as granite. A much cheaper alternative to using natural stones. An updated version of the ceremic tiled top of our mother's era. This material has a wider range of effects/designs and colors to suit any kitchen theme. Depending on the texture of tiles chosen, it can be polished to produce a reflective shine like those of a mirror and usually can last longer than the shine of marble.
In an event of a breakage (due to fallen objects), unlike ceramics, Homogeneous tiles will not show a tile base/body of a different color. Patterns/designs are more subtle and predictable, without the ugly crack lines and spots usually found in natural stones. Homogeneous tiles has a much lower water absorption rate and higher density.
Depending on the skill of the tiler, tiles laid may not be even. Cos it is a synthetic material, it is not possible to polish/grind to make the gaps between slaps to give the seamless look. Warpage may also occur during the process of manufacturing, but this can be overcome by buying from better established companies/brands.
MARBLE
Marble is a natural hard stone that comes in a variety of shades and hue, from off-white to brown, gray or pink and is able to create a timeless look. Its flat, smooth surface which can be grinded to make it level, making the joining lines almost invisible, making it look as if only one piece of material is used the kitchen.
Cool to the touch, especially suitable for people who are doing a lot of pastry baking. *smiles*
Marble is expensive! It requires a lot of maintenance, constantly keeping it clean and free from chemicals and acids. Although hard, they are softer than granite, thus more prone to scratches. Easily repaired with a fresh polish. Porous by nature, marble stains easily when spills are not cleaned up immediately.
GRANITE
The hardest stone used for kitchen work top, making it durable to wear and tear. Granite is a highly polished stone, making it easy to cleaned and maintain. Cool to the touch, especially suitable for people who are doing a lot of pastry baking.
Depending on the origin of the stone, it can contain reflective crystals, thus providing a more glamorous overall look of the home. Usually comes in darker and richer tones, well suited for people who prefer dramatic designs.
The only con we could think of, granite tops are expensive, prices ranks a close second to Marble.
The most popular granites these days are INDIA and CHINA granites.
India Granites has color tone, which are much darker and richer, with more sparkers/ gold dust/ more reflective. They are more inconsistent in color tone and veins/ patterns and are preferred by people who appreciate the irregularity of natural stones. They are denser than china granite and therefore suitable for heavy-duty usage.
China Granites are much lighter and therefore more accepted by homeowners. The price of China granite is only 1/3 when compared to India granites. The pattern and color tone of China granite is lighter, more constant and have less variation as compared to India granite.
Solid Surface
Solid surfaces are the most common and versatile material used in kitchens of today. They are low maintenance and provide great aesthetics to any kitchen they are installed in. Being a man-made material, they come in a wide range of colors, giving a designer greater flexibility when choosing a theme for the kitchen. They are not porous, thus resistant to staining caused by spills. Like marble, they can be polished to a very smooth level, reducing the look of any joint lines or grout, achieving the illusion that only one main piece of material is used for the kitchen top. Being man-made also allows it to be mould into various shape and sizes, giving the owner more choices in the design of the kitchen worktop.
The only con in this material, it is prone to scratches. But this can be easily rectified, by giving the solid surface a fresh polish to restore it show room shine.
There are numerous brands, each having its own advantage and cons when making a comparison between the brands. Solid surface are mainly made up of epoxy and acrylic. Acrylic being the more resistant component in solid surfaces, the higher the percentage used, the better the top. This of course will naturally increase the price, with the better brands costing as much as natural stones. So the next time your ID quote you a price that you think is too cheap or too expensive for a solid top, in your opinion, look at the composite of the epoxy and acrylic before passing any judgment.
Prev: Carpentry... Trimmings
Next: Setting up a kitchen - Sinks
Thursday, September 07, 2006
Carpentry... Trimmings
Cabinet doors are usually covered in some trimmings to better protect the wood from wear and tear. The trimming also covers any exposed edges, preventing the wood from warping due to moisture absorption as well.
There are various kinds of trimming available. The common one being ABS, a plastic trimming that is tightly wrapped around the cabinet doors by a heating process. Compared to yester years, there are many more colors available these days to better match the multitude of colors that laminates offer.
The other trimming that is popular, but more costly is the Aluminum trimming. Aluminum trimmings are tougher and more durable than ABS... but going by the common norm, ABS is sufficient for today's kitchen demands. Aluminum is more for aesthetics purposes. Besides, it is also more costly, so for the budget conscious, it is not very feasible.
They do look good! The only limitation of aluminum trimmings is, if your cabinet has door designs that are not straight (i.e. a round cabinet at the corner with matching doors), then those doors cannot be fitted with aluminum trimming... because aluminum trimmings can only be done on straight edged doors
Another favorite of designers is Veneer Trimmings. Depending on the theme chosen, the colors used and the design adopted, veneer trimming looks better than ABS trimming. In terms of durability, well, veneer is made of natural wood, and the finish requires a higher maintenance than the common laminates. Not recommended for kitchen.
Veneers are usually used in Zen themed designs, or for special wall features because they can be fitted closely at the edges, giving a flushed look with the rest of the furniture, resulting in a very clean look with sharp lines.
Veneer scratches easily, and because it is natural wood and is not recommended for features that are exposed to high human traffic and moisture (e.g. Kitchens).
From our various visits to the units in our area, the only difference we see between the veneer and ABS trimmings are:
a) veneer trimming tend to be sharper at the edges than ABS
if the carpenter is not skilled enough, the trimmings at the edges may not sit very well together, resulting in a very fine gap between the two surfaces that form that edge. There is very little such issues with ABS
b) depending on the design, veneer trimmings give a sharp clean look, whilst ABS will not be able to achieve that flush look that some designers are looking for
So, some considerations you may want to take note, IMHO:
1) if you are having kids, it is better to have ABS trimmings as the edges are not so sharp, thus reducing the risk of injury to them should they fall or knock again the cabinets
2) if your cabinets edges are going be constantly touching water, i.e., the kitchen is constantly being washed, and splashed with water, then go for the ABS trimmings, as there is a smaller chance of the veneer laminates peeling at the edges
if you are trying to achieve the modern, sleek flushed look, then veneer is the way to go
Prev: Carpentry... Laminates
Next: Kitchen Tops – Post Form, Solid surface or Granite?
Carpentry... Laminates
It is not uncommon to hear terms like Laminates, Veneers, ABS trimmings, Aluminium trimmings, Post form top, Solid surface, Stone surface, Round edged, Bull-nosed, Chamfered edged, Handle-less designs, Contemporary, Minimalist, Retro, Modern, Zen… etc and most of the time, we get overwhelmed by these technical terms.
What is the difference between them? Which material is better?
Can they all be used to fit our designs?
For my budget… should we go for the higher end materials? Which design theme suits our home? … the list is endless.
For a start, always ask for samples of the laminates that the ID you engaged will be using when he does your custom furniture pieces. Eventhough the colors of the various brands are similar, due to the way they are manufactured, they each have their pros and cons. So getting samples from the ID for the brands they are offering will allow one to decide if that particular brand is good enough for your needs.
We requested for a few brands of laminates and did a comparison. Plucked them out of the sample booklet, labeled them and put them to various kinds of wear and tear tests. We scratched them, washed them... etc the works! We felt there is a need to perform such tests before making any decisions on which laminates to choose.
They are samples, and samples are meant to be tested anyways 8p
Oh... one more thing... remember to view the selected laminates under different light conditions. We were surprised at how different they look under the different light conditions (sunlight, day light, fluorescent light, evening light... etc)
Be sure to view them under light conditions that will be similar to what you will get in your home... eg under cool white tubes if you are going for those in your home, in your different room at various times of the day (morning, afternoon, evening and night)... etc
That way, you can make a better decision when it come to selecting your laminates and colors for the various rooms.
One of the thing that we came across, some designers will encourage the use of veneers on the inside of the cabinets, saying it makes the cabinets look better and it makes one wonder… Does this finishing make any difference to the cabinets? Can I go without it?
Lining the inner compartments of the cabinets uses additional veneer/laminates, so it is going to be extra cost. The cost of the veneer is calculated on a per square feet (PSF) basis, so, more compartments, more laminates used, more expensive.
Depending on the design, whether it is open concept or a cabinet with doors, one can do without this extra. The inner compartments of the cabinets are for storage purposes only, so using PVC is good enough. PVC is a thin white laminate that is used to cover the inner compartments of the cabinets. This is to reduce the cost of building the cabinets.
There is no need to spend the extra for the laminates on the inside, unless your cabinets are the open concept ones… that is… no doors. With the doors closed to hide the clutter of what you store in them, who is going see what laminates you use inside, veneer or otherwise? 8)
Next: Trimmings…
Prev:Carpentry...
Next:Carpentry... Trimmings
Carpentry...
Ahh… after all the wet works and air-conditioner trunking is completed, it is about time to discuss about carpentry!
When designing a home, it is usually a norm to get your contractor or ID to design custom furniture pieces to suit a certain theme or design. Depending on the budget and the design you are going for, the amount of carpentry work varies from home to home.
How does one gauge if the carpentry workmanship is good?
Basically, it all boils down to LOOK and TOUCH.
Well, request to see some on-going projects that has carpentry done... or at least in progress/finishing, before-hand-over kind of homes, under the care of the ID you are considering.
What we did was to look at the carpentry, touch the finishing, feel the edges to see if you can accept the work or not.
Open and close the drawers, cupboard doors to see if they are smooth.
Look at all the joints to see if they are properly fitted, if any nails or screws are protruding that may hurt you if you brush pass them... etc
Look at the laminate joints as well, see if there are any chipping, any rough edges or any joints that are not properly aligned... etc
when you look at the workmanship of the home, what are you generally feeling?
Are you comfortable with the works?
How bout the designs that was done in the home?
Is this going to be similar to what he will propose to you? ... etc etc
The list is endless, end of the day, it really depends on your criteria... we placed importance on workmanship of flooring and carpentry over looks, simply because we can also propose/counter-propose designs of our own.
When you look at on-going projects, as long as you like what you see, and the price is reasonable, then that ID/contractor can go to the short list.
It is always important to find out all you can for the things you are getting... we are talking about a huge chunk of our savings here, so it doesn’t makes sense to leave things to chance.
Renovation is a very big affair, and it is better to err on the side of caution.
The few strategies listed in my earlier articles are but just a few you could use when deciding on what to do in your home. Always do a little extra leg work to find out about the various material offered and their brands to see if you are getting your money's worth
Next: Discussion on the different materials to be used…
Prev:Air-con... Trunking
Next:Carpentry... Laminates
Monday, September 04, 2006
Air-con... A rough guide
During our search, we found this site Singapore air-con.blogspot.com particularly useful. There is instructions on the site that teaches you how to read an air-conditioner catalogue, what to look out for in an air-conditioner, how to decide if the air-conditioner you are looking at have the features you want and tips on how to save energy when using the air-conditioner.
The other website we found quite good was this Choosing and Air Conditioner.
Air conditioners are rated in BTU (British Thermal Units). They are a measurement of how much heat is being transferred form the room to where the heat is dumped out doors.
How do I determine what size A/C I need?
Calculate the size of the room by multiplying the width of the room by the length of the room. To convert square metres to square feet, 1 sq m = 10.76 sq ft.
Using this area of your room size, you can determine the BTUs required to cool that particular room.
Below is a rough guide based on a room occupied by two adults, having average number of windows, and sun exposure.
I derived these figures based on the average from the quotation that was given to me during our search for an aircon.
Related:
Air-con... Trunking
Prev: Air-con... How to select?
Next:Air-con... Trunking
The other website we found quite good was this Choosing and Air Conditioner.
Air conditioners are rated in BTU (British Thermal Units). They are a measurement of how much heat is being transferred form the room to where the heat is dumped out doors.
How do I determine what size A/C I need?
Calculate the size of the room by multiplying the width of the room by the length of the room. To convert square metres to square feet, 1 sq m = 10.76 sq ft.
Using this area of your room size, you can determine the BTUs required to cool that particular room.
Below is a rough guide based on a room occupied by two adults, having average number of windows, and sun exposure.
| Room in SQ FT | BTU required |
| 100–150 | 5500–8250 BTU |
| 150–200 | 8250–11000 BTU |
| 200–250 | 11000–13750 BTU |
| 250-375 | 13750–20625 BTU |
I derived these figures based on the average from the quotation that was given to me during our search for an aircon.
Related:
Air-con... Trunking
Prev: Air-con... How to select?
Next:Air-con... Trunking
