Gorilla and Mushroom Renovation

Common Questions for beginners... here's help!

2007-07-25T18:50:00.000-07:00

It has been a long time since I last posted an entry here.
With the preparations of the wedding and the moving in and all, we have finally settled down. More or less. heh heh...

The past few months we have been lurking around Renotalk and and found some queries that people, who just got their keys to their new home, are always asking.
Things like what I must look out for when getting a quote? What must I request for when getting my quotations? How many must I get before I sign on the dotted line.... etc etc.

If you have been following my blog, there are some guide lines that I posted in the Strategies series of articles which you can easily access on the menu bar on the right. The following article complements the Strategies series of articles.

Here, I have compiled the above queries into a simple to follow beginner's draft here. I hope it is helpful to you.

Well, to come to the stage to ask for quotations, I would ASSUME that you have sat down with your spouse and discussed about the features and fixtures that you want to have in your home. So these are the things you would want to note when approaching your contractor/ID.

There are some things you need to inform the contractor/ID when you are first requesting for your quotation.
1a)Things like changing to stainless steel (S/S) piping or copper piping for your water, you must state. Cos the costing for them is different.

1b)For things like brands of tiles, laminates, dun tell the contractor yet during the quotation. You will restrict your choices if you do. Instead, get them to quote you the psf unit pricing they are willing to go for your reno works.

1c) Sizes of fridge and washer base is better to tell them, but it is not necessary at the initial stage. This will only give them excuses to increase the cost of the floor works when they are doing the quotation. Give them the dimensions only after you have confirm the contract with them.

1d)Get them to quote you for both overlaying and replacing of the toilet tiles. Some will charge extra for removing the existing tiles. So be sure to ask them for the breakdown.
If you intend to do an overlay, do take note, in the event you want to remove/replace the overlay, the cost of hacking will be more. I dunno how they justify this, but they always say, removing of overlay tiles cost more cos need to remove two layer of tiles and cement.

In a nut shell, for the initial quotation portion, discuss FEATURES that you want. Things like:
- Floor tiles (homo, ceramic, laminates...etc) Skirting included?
- Cabinets for the various rooms, from wardrobes in the bed room to cupboards in the kitchens
- Additional works like window grills, painting...etc
- for things like laminates, paints and solid tops, ask them for their range of products on offer
- for things like tiles, ask them for the range of tiles they are willing to bear. As in, how much psf is the tiles you are allowed to choose from.
- Costing for electrical works, extra lighting points, shifting of points... etc and other things related to electrical works, tell them to at least give you a cost break down for the different things. This is especially important if you intend to put downlights and a false ceiling in your home.

During the quotation phase, just discuss the main things you want the contractor to do in your home. No need to go into specifics yet.

Once you confirm the contractor you want to engage, then you go into details like measurements, dimensions, brands you prefer...etc etc.
- then you got to do additional homework like finding out the cost of tile by going to the supplier on your own
- Getting the different laminates to test
- getting the different solid surfaces to test

2) As for the materials, always ask for the range they offer.
Then ask if you get your own preferred brand, will there be additional costs? If so, how much?
If the cost of the brand you prefer is the same as the one they offer, will they still take it for you?

ALWAYS get a quotation to do up the WHOLE house.
Take for example, you are intending to only do your master room and the kitchen... remember to get a quotation to include the other bedrooms, the living room and the feature wall for both the TV console and the storeroom.
Make sure these items are itemized. As in a separate pricing for each item. At least for each room!

This is because there is a certain price range for every type of house. I guess the contractors have a certain quota to meet as well, so they always use a price guide for the home type to do their quotation.
I have been to many contractors to know that they will quote you about the same amount even when you are doing lesser things in the home.

Itemizing the works in the quotation will also allow you to remove the un-necessary items which you do not need. So if you ask for more during your quotation, when you cut the items out, you know that you are not paying exorbitant pricing when doing the exact thing you want.

Once you get the quotation, break down all the pricing to the unit cost.
For floor, it is per-square-foot (psf).
For carpentry, it is per-foot-run (pfr)
If it is kitchen cabinets, you must clarify if the price quoted to you in based on just the bottom cabinets, top cabinets or both. This is one thing many will overlook.
For water piping, ensure that there is no limit to the length run in the home. Some contractors will quote you a very cheap price, then end up telling you, you can only run a certain length of water pipe in the home. If you want, you need to top up the difference, and this could work out to be really costly.
Next, if you dun mind, post your quotation in the forum for all to see and comment. You will be surprise the cost savings you will get when you get inputs from other home owners who had done their renovations.

After all the comparisons, then comes the payment mode. Ensure that you always get the upper hand.
What I did was to break down the payment into 5 phases.
1) 20% upon delivery of materials
2) 30% upon finishing of floor works
3) 20% upon finishing of carpentry, electrical works...etc
4) 20% upon handover
5) last 10% if there is no problems after we move in. As in all the apparent defects are completely rectified.

Remember, as long as the money is in your pocket, you have the last say. Once you finished the payment before the works are done, you have no say in how the work is going to turn out.

A small message of appreciation to all my readers

2006-12-26T22:28:00.000-08:00

First of all, A MERRY CHRISTMAS and A HAPPY NEW YEAR 2007 to all my readers!

I must apologize for my long absence from updating this blog. Ever since the handover of the home, we have been nothing but busy with our ROM preparations, furniture shopping, accessorizing the home and finding that elusive, plush and comfortable, sofa! :D

But all that is behind us now. We are happily settled down in our new home, and I am now preparing for my next adventure… a wedding blog! Heh heh… hopefully, it will be as useful as this blog for all who are preparing the next phase of their life.

I will continue to update this blog with the remainder of the articles planned before my absence… so that it will be a complete start till finish for setting up a new home and it will include lighting advices, bedding, appliances and some of the smaller items like curtains will also be featured. So Look Out for the updated articles!

Setting up a kitchen - Hobs and Hoods

2006-09-28T23:03:00.000-07:00

The cooker is definitely the next must have in the kitchen. Now a days, with the smaller and poorer ventilated kitchens, the hood is also another must have.

With the improvement in technology and reduction of cost of manufacturing, the cooker hob is becoming popular. A quick tour of the City Gas show room at Dhoby Gaut will offer you a glimpse of the many brands and designs in the market today.

Cooker hobs and hoods are usually offered as a pair in packages. These are usually good deals available but a mix and match of the hood and hobs are also available.

Hobs
Normally the most used appliance in any kitchen. There are many types of hobs ranging from ceramic induction hobs with their slim design and scratch resistant wipe-clean surface to the traditional gas hobs that we are familiar with. Gas Hobs provide instant control of the heat and are a must-have in most local kitchen.

Given the electrical requirement of the ceramic induction hobs, one is likely to need some modification to the power point required to power the induction hob. These hobs are usually more costly due to the design and the material used to manufacture them. We did not do much research on these hobs and will not be able to discuss much the details of these hobs.

Hobs now-a-days come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes, and some of the designs are pretty interesting to look at.
One thing to note when buying a hob, is the dimension. One has to bear in mind that these appliances are prone to wear and tear and have to be replaced sometime in the future. So buying a size that is common to most of the brands will reduce the headaches when it is time to replace them.

Of course, if you really like a particular hob cos it goes very well with the design of your kitchen, no one is going to stop you from purchasing it. It is just an advisable, in our humble opinion to get the common size when viewed in the long term.

The common size that we see so far between the brands are usually the 860x500 mm sized hobs and the cut outs for this particular size varies only a few millimeters, so getting a replacement in future is not going to be a big hassle.

Do also take note of the source of gas you are using in your kitchen. There are two types of fixtures, one for the City Gas and the other is for the normal LPG gas. Remember to inform the sales person when you are making the purchase so that the correct one is delivered to you.

Cooker hobs usually comes in glass or stainless steel.
Glass hobs are easy to maintain and aesthetically good to look at and easy to blend into many kitchen designs today.

The functionality are the same as the stainless steel and there is little difference between them other than the glass top. If you are intending to purchase a glass hob, the standard is tempered glass but do ensure that the glass is tempered.

Burners
The burners also come in a variety of material and each has its own pros and cons. Some prefer the look of certain material over others, while some will prefer durability over looks. So depending on your priorities, the different material will also command different pricing. Of course, branding plays a big part as well.

Brass
This metal is gold in color. Some burners come coated with colors to suit certain designs and looks of the hob. Sometimes, they are chromed silver to achieve a better look with the stainless steel hobs.
Very resistant to corrosion. Anti rust, so there is no worry about the burner caps corroding away with long term usage.

Chrome
The silver color tends to turn bluish and purplish when used and constant cleaning required to keep it gleaming and shiny. As durable as brass, they are tough and looks particularly good when new. Also resistant to corrosion. Anti rust, so there is no worry about the burner caps corroding away with long term usage

Cast Iron
Looks really good on a hob. Give a very solid look and feel to the overall design of the hob. Prone to rusting if not properly maintained. Rough surface finishing makes it a little more cumbersome to clean when spills occurs. Will wear thin with prolong usage.

Enamel coated Cast Iron
Similar to Cast iron burner caps. As long as the enamel coat is not damaged, this material will be much easier to clean and maintain compared to Cast Iron.

Hoods
An efficient cooker hood is essential in preventing condensation, grease and cooking odors from circulating freely in the kitchen. The common type of cooker hoods can be ducted or re-circulated, depending on the way the kitchen is designed.

Ducted cooker hoods has an exhaust pipe that links the hood and expels the fumes directly outside the home. Usually not applicable to high rise units like our HDB and condo flats. More for landed properties.
The common one used are the re-circulated hoods, where the fumes are filtered and the exhaust expelled back to the kitchen.

The cooker hoods are usually available in stainless steel or aluminum and they come in various widths of 600mm, 700mm or 900mm. The standard features that come with a cooker hood are typically variable speeds of suction and a powerful illumination to brighten up the cooking area. The controls allow you to vary the rate of extraction depending on how much cooking you are doing.

Look at the suction power of the hood. Don't just read the data printed on the brochures... do a test if possible.
what is written on the brochures usually states the suction power before the installation of the charcoal filters, so it is usually more powerful than it actually is when the whole setup is installed in your home. Get a piece of cardboard to test. Turn the hood on and let the cardboard be sucked to the filter. Try to remove the cardboard. You can feel the suction of the cardboard to the hood when doing so. This way, you can discern whether the suction is good or not. Do a few test with various brands and models and you will be able to decide which hood is good for your needs.

The cooker hoods generally comes in two forms... chimney and slim hoods.

Chimney hoods
Like the name suggest, there is a short chimney from the hood to guide filtered fumes out at a higher location to prevent them from directly blowing back at your hair as and when you are cooking.

Slim hoods
These hoods are designed to be slim to maximize the space in the kitchen. Not as powerful as chimney hoods, they do a pretty decent job in filtering cooking fumes.

Charcoal filter
Its purpose is mainly to reduce the smells of the fumes that are being passed through the hood, thus reducing the smells in the kitchen when the air is expelled out at the exhaust. This filter has to be changed at least once a year for regular cooking, twice if you are a frequent cook.

Oil Filter
Usually the metal plates that cover the hood that has to be removed before you can view the inside of the hood to access the charcoal filter and motor. This filters also come in a variety of design, specific to the brands they are made for. They come in various thickness depending on how many layers of wire mesh is used. Most come in three to four layers and are sufficient for normal use in a typical kitchen.

Oil Reservoir
Some models boast of a small cup or container that collects the oil from the cooking fumes. This is additional feature which I personally think is cumbersome, cos the container has to be constantly cleared away so that the oil collected do not harden and start to smell when left alone.

Prev:Setting up a kitchen - Sinks

Setting up a kitchen - Sinks

2006-09-28T21:23:00.000-07:00

hmm... once most of the carpentry is up, it is time to look at accessories like hood and hob, sink and taps and stainless steel accessories that usually come with the setting up of a functional kitchen

The kitchen sink is a must have in every kitchen and there are many sink and tap, suited for every kind of kitchen, available in the market.
The most commonly used ones are the stainless steel sinks that we grew up with. There are also sinks that are made of different material to suit different types of designs and preferences.

We have came across a variety of sinks during our search and we will discuss those that are commonly available here.

Sink mounting
The are only two ways to mount the sink, on top of the kitchen counter top or under it... appropriately termed top mount and under mount.

Top mount
The sink sit in measured custom-shaped holes roughly cut in the kitchen top and are suspended by their rim. The rim then inherently forms a fairly close seal with the top surface of the countertop.

Under mount
Most any sink can be undermounted. The main requirement is adequate support so that the top of it is flush or slightly lower than your 3/4" kitchen top.

Undermount sinks typically have a large, flat, often thinner rim with an unfinished edge.

The edge of the countertop material is exposed at the hole created for the sink (and so must be a carefully polished to a smooth finished). The sink is then clamped to the bottom of the material from below. Silicone-based sealants are used to assure a waterproof joint between the sink and the countertop material creating a contemporary look to the kitchen overall design.

Sink configuration
There are actually many configuration for sinks today as compared to our mums and dad's time. They come in single bowl, double bowl, corner single or double bowl are the common ones you will come across when searching for your sink to suit the needs and the design of your kitchen.

Do take note of the measurement when selecting a sink. The length, width and even the depth of the bowl will determine how much allowance your carpenter has to give when customizing your kitchen cabinets.

Sink material
The kitchen sink typically comes in a variety of material, the common ones found in the local market are stainless steel, granite. There are, however, other materials that are used and can be customized for your kitchen if requested.

Stainless Steel Sink
We always hear of 18/8 grade of stainless steel... what 18/8 grade Stainless is? What do the numbers represent?

18/8 stainless steel usually indicates composition of chromium, nickel and iron used to manufacture that particular sink. This composite contains 18% chromium, 8% nickel and the remainder is iron. It does however also contain other elements, but at very low levels. Other common designations include 301, 302, and 304 stainless steel, to differentiate the different trace amounts of carbon, usually <0.1%, to make the steel tougher.

This 18/8 grade of stainless steel is common and is widely available and relatively cheap. It also gives a great finish when electro-polished. This type of stainless steel is usually prone to surface damage like scratches.

There is little overall difference in corrosion resistance among the 18/8 grade, but slight differences in chemical composition do make certain grades more resistant than others against particular chemicals or atmospheres.

Granite Sink
Comes in a variety of colours and configuration. Hard rock granite is heat, stain, scratch and chip resistant. The uniform color of the granite also makes imperfections harder to be noticed. With the polished finish of the granite sink, they are easy to clean and maintain.

Granite sinks offer definite functional advantages in addition to their beautiful appearance. Mostly used for aesthetics. The most obvious reason for deciding on a granite sink is that it is usually recessed into the countertop, blending beautifully with a granite counter and are a perfect complement to the warm, inviting, yet elegant look designers strive for.

Custom Solid surface sinks
Similar to granite sinks, but are custom made to the solid surface you are installing in the kitchen.

Solid-surface materials allow sinks to be made of the same material and color as the kitchen top selected. These sinks can then easily be adhered to the underside of the countertop material and the joint sanded flat, creating the usual invisible joint and completely eliminating any dirt-catching seam between the sink and the countertop.

Prev:Kitchen Tops
Next: Setting up a kitchen - Hobs and Hoods

Air-con... Trunking

2006-09-20T02:09:00.000-07:00

This is a common question asked by many in the forums... and thought it would be approiate to do a write up on this.

Trunking is the general term used for the white casing that is used to hide the insulation and copper pipes and water pipes that connects your compressor to your air-con unit (fan coils) on the wall.

Due to the different layout of each home and the postion of the fan coils, there is a need to plan the trunking to achieve a reduction of the unsightly looking casing and at the same time optimizing the length of the gas pipes to prolong the life of your air-con. This is because the longer your trunking (esp the copper pipes) is, the harder your compressor has to work to bring the cool air to your fan coils and draw the warm gas back, the shorter the life span of the compressor.

The procedures of installing the aircon is usually done this way:
1) Copper pipe and insulation
2) Water Pipe (if done separately from the copper piping )
3) The air-con fan coils and compressor

Depending on where you run the trunking, the contractor usually will make a minium of two trips to install your air-con, one for the trunking and the other for the system itself.

The first trip to install all the necessary trunking, then your painter can paint over them, including the area behind the air-con fan coils. On the second trip, they install the fan coils and compressor. Doing it this way will ensure that your no part of your brand new air-con will be painted by accident, and the finishing touches to the trunking is nicer looking when painted over with the same colors as your wall.

This of course is not compulsory, but a norm. If you are implementing a complicated theme, you may want to discuss with your air-con contractor to spilt the installation to more days.

There are various ways for the trunking to be routed. How you select will determine when the trunking can be installed.
If you are running your trunking all along the floor above the skirting, then the copper pipes and water pipes can only be installed after the flooring and skirting is done.

If you are thinking of hiding some of your air-con trunking behind the false ceiling first, then the trunking has to be done before your cornice/false ceiling man comes to install the false ceiling and L-boxes.

Normally, the air-con contractor will plan your trunking route with both the water pipe and the copper gas pipes in the same casing. You also have the option of running them separately, depending on the lay out and the trunk route plan of your unit as well.

The only way to know is to look at the floor plan, know where the overhead beams are, coupled with the renovation theme to plan your trunk route.

Regarding the insulation used, there are many types of insulation available in the market... and there is a very good write up on which thickness to choose from this site Singapore air-con.blogspot.com.

Again, which insulation you use and whether there is a limitation to how thick the insulation can be used in your home, will depend on the unit. For example, if you are using a System 4 air-con, and all your rooms are very far from the air-con ledge, the biggest 4 by 2 inch casing may not be able to contain the 1/2 inch insulation for all the gas pipes, there may be a need to downgrade it to the 1/4 inch insulation so that all the copper pipes can fit into one casing.

This has to be discussed in detail with your air-con contractor on site so that a good trunking route can be achieve.

Kitchen Tops – Post Form, Solid surface or Granite?

2006-09-13T22:40:00.000-07:00

Finally, after a long period of busy work schedules, we can get back to sharing information on renovation.

Kitchen tops... This is one of the headaches when it comes to kitchen customization. Dating back to our grandmother’s time, there are a few types of surface top that is commonly used in the kitchen and each has its own pros and cons.

Again, one has to take into consideration the kind of usage in the kitchen. Depending on whether you are a frequent cook or just doing the occasional preparation of a feast, the kind of worktop you select will affect the costing of your total renovation quotation.

Post Form
This is the most common in yester years due to its cost. It is made of wood and covered in a laminate of your choice. They are scratch resistance and require minimal maintenance. There are a wide variety of colors to choose from. With the advancement of technology, the newer ranges of laminates are getting better, with some ranges being able to emulate the look and feel of natural stone or metals.

Post forms are made of wood, and are prone to warping if spills not quickly removed and the affected area dried. With good and proper maintenance, post form tops can last a life time.

Homogeneous tiles, Polished top
A man made material created to be as tough as granite. A much cheaper alternative to using natural stones. An updated version of the ceremic tiled top of our mother's era. This material has a wider range of effects/designs and colors to suit any kitchen theme. Depending on the texture of tiles chosen, it can be polished to produce a reflective shine like those of a mirror and usually can last longer than the shine of marble.
In an event of a breakage (due to fallen objects), unlike ceramics, Homogeneous tiles will not show a tile base/body of a different color. Patterns/designs are more subtle and predictable, without the ugly crack lines and spots usually found in natural stones. Homogeneous tiles has a much lower water absorption rate and higher density.

Depending on the skill of the tiler, tiles laid may not be even. Cos it is a synthetic material, it is not possible to polish/grind to make the gaps between slaps to give the seamless look. Warpage may also occur during the process of manufacturing, but this can be overcome by buying from better established companies/brands.

MARBLE
Marble is a natural hard stone that comes in a variety of shades and hue, from off-white to brown, gray or pink and is able to create a timeless look. Its flat, smooth surface which can be grinded to make it level, making the joining lines almost invisible, making it look as if only one piece of material is used the kitchen.
Cool to the touch, especially suitable for people who are doing a lot of pastry baking. *smiles*

Marble is expensive! It requires a lot of maintenance, constantly keeping it clean and free from chemicals and acids. Although hard, they are softer than granite, thus more prone to scratches. Easily repaired with a fresh polish. Porous by nature, marble stains easily when spills are not cleaned up immediately.

GRANITE
The hardest stone used for kitchen work top, making it durable to wear and tear. Granite is a highly polished stone, making it easy to cleaned and maintain. Cool to the touch, especially suitable for people who are doing a lot of pastry baking.

Depending on the origin of the stone, it can contain reflective crystals, thus providing a more glamorous overall look of the home. Usually comes in darker and richer tones, well suited for people who prefer dramatic designs.

The only con we could think of, granite tops are expensive, prices ranks a close second to Marble.

The most popular granites these days are INDIA and CHINA granites.
India Granites has color tone, which are much darker and richer, with more sparkers/ gold dust/ more reflective. They are more inconsistent in color tone and veins/ patterns and are preferred by people who appreciate the irregularity of natural stones. They are denser than china granite and therefore suitable for heavy-duty usage.

China Granites are much lighter and therefore more accepted by homeowners. The price of China granite is only 1/3 when compared to India granites. The pattern and color tone of China granite is lighter, more constant and have less variation as compared to India granite.

Solid Surface
Solid surfaces are the most common and versatile material used in kitchens of today. They are low maintenance and provide great aesthetics to any kitchen they are installed in. Being a man-made material, they come in a wide range of colors, giving a designer greater flexibility when choosing a theme for the kitchen. They are not porous, thus resistant to staining caused by spills. Like marble, they can be polished to a very smooth level, reducing the look of any joint lines or grout, achieving the illusion that only one main piece of material is used for the kitchen top. Being man-made also allows it to be mould into various shape and sizes, giving the owner more choices in the design of the kitchen worktop.

The only con in this material, it is prone to scratches. But this can be easily rectified, by giving the solid surface a fresh polish to restore it show room shine.

There are numerous brands, each having its own advantage and cons when making a comparison between the brands. Solid surface are mainly made up of epoxy and acrylic. Acrylic being the more resistant component in solid surfaces, the higher the percentage used, the better the top. This of course will naturally increase the price, with the better brands costing as much as natural stones. So the next time your ID quote you a price that you think is too cheap or too expensive for a solid top, in your opinion, look at the composite of the epoxy and acrylic before passing any judgment.

Prev: Carpentry... Trimmings
Next: Setting up a kitchen - Sinks

Carpentry... Trimmings

2006-09-07T19:02:00.000-07:00

Cabinet doors are usually covered in some trimmings to better protect the wood from wear and tear. The trimming also covers any exposed edges, preventing the wood from warping due to moisture absorption as well.

There are various kinds of trimming available. The common one being ABS, a plastic trimming that is tightly wrapped around the cabinet doors by a heating process. Compared to yester years, there are many more colors available these days to better match the multitude of colors that laminates offer.

The other trimming that is popular, but more costly is the Aluminum trimming. Aluminum trimmings are tougher and more durable than ABS... but going by the common norm, ABS is sufficient for today's kitchen demands. Aluminum is more for aesthetics purposes. Besides, it is also more costly, so for the budget conscious, it is not very feasible.

They do look good! The only limitation of aluminum trimmings is, if your cabinet has door designs that are not straight (i.e. a round cabinet at the corner with matching doors), then those doors cannot be fitted with aluminum trimming... because aluminum trimmings can only be done on straight edged doors

Another favorite of designers is Veneer Trimmings. Depending on the theme chosen, the colors used and the design adopted, veneer trimming looks better than ABS trimming. In terms of durability, well, veneer is made of natural wood, and the finish requires a higher maintenance than the common laminates. Not recommended for kitchen.

Veneers are usually used in Zen themed designs, or for special wall features because they can be fitted closely at the edges, giving a flushed look with the rest of the furniture, resulting in a very clean look with sharp lines.

Veneer scratches easily, and because it is natural wood and is not recommended for features that are exposed to high human traffic and moisture (e.g. Kitchens).

From our various visits to the units in our area, the only difference we see between the veneer and ABS trimmings are:
a) veneer trimming tend to be sharper at the edges than ABS
if the carpenter is not skilled enough, the trimmings at the edges may not sit very well together, resulting in a very fine gap between the two surfaces that form that edge. There is very little such issues with ABS
b) depending on the design, veneer trimmings give a sharp clean look, whilst ABS will not be able to achieve that flush look that some designers are looking for

So, some considerations you may want to take note, IMHO:
1) if you are having kids, it is better to have ABS trimmings as the edges are not so sharp, thus reducing the risk of injury to them should they fall or knock again the cabinets

2) if your cabinets edges are going be constantly touching water, i.e., the kitchen is constantly being washed, and splashed with water, then go for the ABS trimmings, as there is a smaller chance of the veneer laminates peeling at the edges

if you are trying to achieve the modern, sleek flushed look, then veneer is the way to go

Prev: Carpentry... Laminates
Next: Kitchen Tops – Post Form, Solid surface or Granite?

Carpentry... Laminates

2006-09-07T18:57:00.000-07:00

It is not uncommon to hear terms like Laminates, Veneers, ABS trimmings, Aluminium trimmings, Post form top, Solid surface, Stone surface, Round edged, Bull-nosed, Chamfered edged, Handle-less designs, Contemporary, Minimalist, Retro, Modern, Zen… etc and most of the time, we get overwhelmed by these technical terms.

What is the difference between them? Which material is better?
Can they all be used to fit our designs?
For my budget… should we go for the higher end materials? Which design theme suits our home? … the list is endless.

For a start, always ask for samples of the laminates that the ID you engaged will be using when he does your custom furniture pieces. Eventhough the colors of the various brands are similar, due to the way they are manufactured, they each have their pros and cons. So getting samples from the ID for the brands they are offering will allow one to decide if that particular brand is good enough for your needs.

We requested for a few brands of laminates and did a comparison. Plucked them out of the sample booklet, labeled them and put them to various kinds of wear and tear tests. We scratched them, washed them... etc the works! We felt there is a need to perform such tests before making any decisions on which laminates to choose.
They are samples, and samples are meant to be tested anyways 8p

Oh... one more thing... remember to view the selected laminates under different light conditions. We were surprised at how different they look under the different light conditions (sunlight, day light, fluorescent light, evening light... etc)
Be sure to view them under light conditions that will be similar to what you will get in your home... eg under cool white tubes if you are going for those in your home, in your different room at various times of the day (morning, afternoon, evening and night)... etc

That way, you can make a better decision when it come to selecting your laminates and colors for the various rooms.

One of the thing that we came across, some designers will encourage the use of veneers on the inside of the cabinets, saying it makes the cabinets look better and it makes one wonder… Does this finishing make any difference to the cabinets? Can I go without it?

Lining the inner compartments of the cabinets uses additional veneer/laminates, so it is going to be extra cost. The cost of the veneer is calculated on a per square feet (PSF) basis, so, more compartments, more laminates used, more expensive.

Depending on the design, whether it is open concept or a cabinet with doors, one can do without this extra. The inner compartments of the cabinets are for storage purposes only, so using PVC is good enough. PVC is a thin white laminate that is used to cover the inner compartments of the cabinets. This is to reduce the cost of building the cabinets.

There is no need to spend the extra for the laminates on the inside, unless your cabinets are the open concept ones… that is… no doors. With the doors closed to hide the clutter of what you store in them, who is going see what laminates you use inside, veneer or otherwise? 8)

Next: Trimmings…

Prev:Carpentry...
Next:Carpentry... Trimmings

Carpentry...

2006-09-07T18:03:00.000-07:00

Ahh… after all the wet works and air-conditioner trunking is completed, it is about time to discuss about carpentry!
When designing a home, it is usually a norm to get your contractor or ID to design custom furniture pieces to suit a certain theme or design. Depending on the budget and the design you are going for, the amount of carpentry work varies from home to home.

How does one gauge if the carpentry workmanship is good?
Basically, it all boils down to LOOK and TOUCH.

Well, request to see some on-going projects that has carpentry done... or at least in progress/finishing, before-hand-over kind of homes, under the care of the ID you are considering.

What we did was to look at the carpentry, touch the finishing, feel the edges to see if you can accept the work or not.
Open and close the drawers, cupboard doors to see if they are smooth.
Look at all the joints to see if they are properly fitted, if any nails or screws are protruding that may hurt you if you brush pass them... etc
Look at the laminate joints as well, see if there are any chipping, any rough edges or any joints that are not properly aligned... etc

when you look at the workmanship of the home, what are you generally feeling?
Are you comfortable with the works?
How bout the designs that was done in the home?
Is this going to be similar to what he will propose to you? ... etc etc

The list is endless, end of the day, it really depends on your criteria... we placed importance on workmanship of flooring and carpentry over looks, simply because we can also propose/counter-propose designs of our own.
When you look at on-going projects, as long as you like what you see, and the price is reasonable, then that ID/contractor can go to the short list.

It is always important to find out all you can for the things you are getting... we are talking about a huge chunk of our savings here, so it doesn’t makes sense to leave things to chance.

Renovation is a very big affair, and it is better to err on the side of caution.
The few strategies listed in my earlier articles are but just a few you could use when deciding on what to do in your home. Always do a little extra leg work to find out about the various material offered and their brands to see if you are getting your money's worth

Next: Discussion on the different materials to be used…

Prev:Air-con... Trunking
Next:Carpentry... Laminates

Air-con... A rough guide

2006-09-04T20:54:00.000-07:00

During our search, we found this site Singapore air-con.blogspot.com particularly useful. There is instructions on the site that teaches you how to read an air-conditioner catalogue, what to look out for in an air-conditioner, how to decide if the air-conditioner you are looking at have the features you want and tips on how to save energy when using the air-conditioner.

The other website we found quite good was this Choosing and Air Conditioner.

Air conditioners are rated in BTU (British Thermal Units). They are a measurement of how much heat is being transferred form the room to where the heat is dumped out doors.
How do I determine what size A/C I need?
Calculate the size of the room by multiplying the width of the room by the length of the room. To convert square metres to square feet, 1 sq m = 10.76 sq ft.
Using this area of your room size, you can determine the BTUs required to cool that particular room.

Below is a rough guide based on a room occupied by two adults, having average number of windows, and sun exposure.

Room in SQ FT	BTU required
100–150	5500–8250 BTU
150–200	8250–11000 BTU
200–250	11000–13750 BTU
250-375	13750–20625 BTU

I derived these figures based on the average from the quotation that was given to me during our search for an aircon.

Air-con... How to select?

2006-09-03T19:15:00.000-07:00

Depending largely on your usage, there are various ways to plan your air-con layout.

There are a few questions you need to ask:
1) How often do you use the air-con for the living and dining room?
2) How often does the air-con in the living/dining room get on at the same time as the rest of the bedrooms?
3) Are you getting a standard system 3/4 or an invertor?

Using a standard system, one would have more or less a fixed number of BTUs for each room, depending on how you connect the blowers to the compressor.

Using an invertor system, albeit more expensive, will have the BTU distributed based on usage patterns, but would not be very effective if your usage or cooling area is more than the total power output of the system. (Singapore has some limitations on the compressor total horsepower for HDB units).

There is a very good write-up on this at Singapore air-con.blogspot.com

I also got various configurations proposed to me during my search. Try talking to the girl at this Toa Payoh central shop that sells air-con. It is located near to the Crystal Jade restaurant, between Courts and the money-changer. She was one of the few that would educate newbies, like us, on why she configure the air-con layout for your unit, and would recommend various layouts based on your usage needs.

Most important of all, is the budget... see if it is really worth it to get one big unit to cool the big dining room and living room, or is it more efficient to have a curtain partition to divide the room up so that you can cool one portion at a time. Can't be in both the living AND the dining room at the same time all of the time ;)

As to concealing the trunking and pipes… well, it is definitely pleasing to the eyes when it comes to concealing the piping, be it water, gas or air-con trunking... and it is definitely neater when it comes to planning the layout of the furniture as well.

Problem is this, when and should the day come, when there is a leak, or a loss of pressure, for say, the gas pipe, doing a trace for the source of the leak would be a big problem. What if it is a water leak? And if the leak is within the concealed portion? One would have to demolish the custom furniture or L-box that is concealing it to fix the problem. This means money spent ON TOP of fixing the leaky pipe --> to demolish AND redo the custom feature that once concealed the pipes.

For a practical person, like myself, this would be a big no no… IMHO, not really feasible, if it can be avoided, avoid.

There are many ways to run the piping without having to conceal it, and still achieve the uncluttered look…
One way is to run all the piping or trunking along the beams as much as possible, so that when you paint over the trunking, it will look like part of the wall.

The other way is to run as much of the piping as possible in places where it can be camouflaged, like behind the beams, in the toilets... etc

The third way is to run the piping along the top part of the wall as near to the ceiling as possible, and then build a pellmet to conceal it. A pellmet is exposed at the bottom, so doing a trace is easy, even if you need to demolish a portion of it to fix any problems, it is still cheaper to replace than an L-box or a custom furniture piece

Work with your ID or contractor regarding this, they will definitely be able to plan it better than us.

Renovation progress Update... Painting

2006-08-30T19:49:00.000-07:00

There are lots of different finishes to the various paints and depending on the activities of the room, the finish will definitely come into play.

Our selections span across different brands, from Wash&Wear from ICI Dulux to Odour-less from Nippon...
Like we mentioned before... we only selected our paints from Nippon and ICI Dulux, so could only do a comparison between these two brands.

Between Nippon and ICI Dulux, we felt that the ICI range of products seems to be a combination of two or three Nippon products, and vice-versa.
Selecting a Nippon range, say Medi-fresh is like getting a mixture of ICI All-in-one plus Supreme 3-in-1... or
Selecting a ICI Dulux range, say Supreme 3-in-1 is like getting a mixture of Nippon Wash&Wear and Medi-fresh(without the anti-bacterial component)... etc

When Nippon advertised the Odourless paint series, it does not mean it is odourless... it means odour-less... as in less odour, NOT totally no odour... so take note :)

So here is the comparison that we compiled...
Nippon All-in-one is very similar to the ICI Dulux All-in-one
Nippon Medi-fresh is very similar to the ICI Dulux All-in-one and Supreme 3-in-1
Nippon EasyWash is very similar to the ICI Dulux Supreme 3-in-1 and Wash&Wear
Nippon 3-in-1 SoftMatt is very similar to the ICI Dulux Pentalite range

Mentioned in my earlier article, we actually took a sponge and a wet tissue to test if the paints we selected are as washable as the catalogs claimed them to be, and we were very satisfied with the results...

If you are going for a washable surface, Matte paints are a big no no. Once you apply the sponge on it, the matte surfaces gets polished off, leaving a low shiny sheen on the area that was scrubbed. When viewed at an angle, there will be shiny patches among the matte wall. Not very nice.

If you are going for a spot light fixture for a particular wall, then a Matte finish is very important. This is because the light from the spot light will not reflect too much off the wall, and will be able to create the desired effect of the shadow/light cast on the wall.

Our finished paint works...

Prev: Paints... what to choose? how to choose?
Next: Air-con... How to select?

Paints... what to choose? how to choose?

2006-08-30T09:09:00.000-07:00

One of the most challenging tasks in our renovation so far, has got to be choosing the colours for the home.
When we first got our colour catalogs from the various paint shops, we were thinking... "with so many colours to choose from, we will definately find the ones we like in a jiffy!"
Boy were we wrong! There are so many choices, you don't know where to start!

There are various brands that offer a whole range of colour and finishes for your painting needs. The most popular paint brands are ICI and Nippon. So the discussion will mostly be surrounding these two brands.

Hopefully, sharing our experience, would help you when it is time to make a choice for your colour selection.
After all, the tone of a room, is ultimately set by the paint color.

Tip 1 ALWAYS be Patient
Given the infinite combination of colours available in the market today, it is important that one be patient when sitting down with your partner to select the righ colour scheme that is suitable for both of you. Given the asian context here, there is bound to be some external factors that affect the choice of colours... eg Feng Shui, Budget... etc

It is great to collect colour catalogs but hold off making final choices until the both of you have decided on an overall room scheme. Paint is available in literally an infinite array of colors and is the most versatile element of your room decor. It is the easiest to change, and, comparing to the rest of your renovation needs, is the least expensive. Go thru magazines, blogs and forums to get ideas. Think of what goes into each room, carpets, wallpaper, laminates... before deciding what colours go to which rooms.

Tip 2 Understand your needs
Do you already have kids?
Are you planning your walls with kids in mind?
What kinda mood are you seeking?

Given the different finishes offered by paints today, Medifresh, Anti-bacterial, Washable, Matte... the list is long... one has to sit down and seriously consider the needs of each room to decide on the type of finish one requires in each room. Matte finishes will hide wall imperfections, but glossier finishes will reflect more light.

Colors are often referred to as "warm" and "cool". Orange, red, and pink are considered "warm" colors, while blues, greens, and violet are thought to be "cool." Knowing the theory behind color can help you select the right tone for the feel you're trying to achieve. There is a very good write up on this on the ICI webpage, click on the "Be Inspired" tab... very useful starting point if you are at a loss when choosing a colour scheme for your room.

Alternatively, you can do a google for the colour scheme that you have in mind and you will get a whole range of suggestions with pictures which you could show your partner, that way, both of you are "looking" at the same picture during your discussions

Tip 3 Tried and tested?
More often than not, we will be collecting a few copies of the same catalogs. Like tiles, one can always test the finish to see if it is what you want for your home. If the paints claims to be washable, try washing the particular sample to see if it is really that washable.

Tip 4 Lighting plays a part
Cut the catalog up to create colour strips of your own, and put it up on the wall the colour is intended upon to view them... it will be different from just staring at it when it is laid on the table.

Look at it during the day, morning, evening, and night. Due to the different finishes of the paints, viewing them in the day under natural light, and under the fluorescent light in the night is also very different. So you have to view them under the various conditions to see if that is the colour that you really like... thus the need for Tip 1!

Tip 5 Expect variation in the tones
Colours in the catalogs are just a small sample. The white you see on the catalog is not always the same white you see when painted on the walls. Beiges and off-whites have subtle color, so compare the paint samples to your laminates and floor tiles to determine if a warmer pinkish or yellow-toned white or a cooler, bluer white is best suited for your room.

Light colours tend to look one shade darker when painted on the walls, and dark and bold colours tend to look one shade lighter. So keep this in mind when selecting your colours.

Tip 6 Why? What? Where? How?
You can never ask enough questions when it comes to selecting materials for your home. One can always go to the nearest store for helpful paint advice. Alternatively, you can online and and do a search or post a query on the forums for additional advise as well. Ask about the different paint finishes, sometimes you can even ask about the differences between the different brands. Ask which paint products they recommend, and why they recommend them as such. Get information on specialty paints such as low-odor, stain-killing primers, chalkboard paint, washable paint, and many more.

Visit a few more stores, and ask the same questions again, and you will soon be able to make a better informed choice for the colours in your room.

Tip 7 Colour consultation
If after all the above, you are still not able to make a decision, get a colour consultant to help.
You can engage a ICI or Nippon's color consultant... They will go to your unit, take pictures and use Photoshop to give you a simulation of how the selected colours would turn out.

For ICI, they charge $75 per visit, and for Nippon, I think $110. Both will give you paint vouchers which you can redeem at selected paint shops.

FYI, we were planning to do a combination of two colours for each room, and it help a lot when it comes to selecting the colour combination for each room after the consultation.

A sample of what the consultant did for us...

Prev: Plumbling... copper or stainless steel?
Next: Progress Update... painting

Plumbling... copper or stainless steel?

2006-08-28T18:24:00.000-07:00

Now that the floor is done, it is time for plumbing!

Thinking of installing a storage tank heater? Due to the temperture of the hot water, the PVC pipes provided by HDB may not be able to withstand the pressure and heat from the water. Replacement of water piping is always recommended for families who intend to use a storage heater for their hot water needs.

We got mixed reviews about stainless steel and copper piping. Both metals are not prone to rusting, so both are good for the water piping in the home.

The more questions we ask the more we learned... this are our findings:

Copper is a softer material compared to stainless steel, so it is easier to bend. Lesser joints are needed for copper piping when it has to go around a corner. It is also easier to do threading at the joints, thus the cheaper price compared to stainless steel.

Due to the metal properties of copper, they then to oxidize, becoming a dull brown over time, sometimes turning green on the surface of the pipe due to the exposure to iron (the nails that holds the bracket to the wall), making the piping really unsightly.
This can be easily overcome by painting the copper pipes.

Stainless steel is tougher and a plumber needs to be skillful in threading the ends. Loose or inaccurate threading will lead to leakage at the joints. Stainless steel is harder to bend, a skilled plumber should be smart enough not to bend any pipe more than an angle of 45 degrees and using elbow joints for the rest to minimize bending works. Due to the larger number of joints used, stainless steel piping naturally will cost more.

The stainless steel looks good, and given the inert properties of the metal, there is no need to paint over the pipes to prevent oxidation.

Depending on individual preference and budget, both are good materials for use in the home.

Stainless steel with a good quality plumbing workmanship is always recommended if one intends to live in the house for the long haul, though copper pipes will do just as well. Our mom and pops are all for stainless steel because of its durability and the neat clean looks.

Coming from the old school of upbringing, heh heh, we chose the stainless steel pipe... and boy do they look good! Silver and shiny, really gives one the feeling of looking at something that is brand new everytime you look at it! *grinz*

Prev: Progress Update... wetworks! (part 2)
Next: Paints... what to choose? how to choose?

Renovation progress Update... wetworks! (part 2)

2006-08-27T22:40:00.000-07:00

well, the floor laying are in progress! These guys are quick! within half a day, they have done pretty much half the house floors!

Laying of floor tiles... a messy process...

Cathing the alignment to ensure the tiles lines are nicely arranged, heh heh... created a sort of a personal run-away...
Models anyone?

And the amazing part is, within a week, the floor is done!

Grouting included!

Prev: Progress Update... wetworks!
Next: Plumbling... copper or stainless steel?

Renovation progress Update... wetworks!

2006-08-27T22:39:00.000-07:00

After going around to survey for the various material for our home, we finally decided on going to:

Hafary Pte Ltd
15 Defu Ave 1 Singapore 539538
6383 2314

Look for Ian... good and patient sale person, willing to cater to your numerous requests for samples to ensure that you are choosing the right tiles for your home. Best shopping experience when seeking materials for the renovation.

Floor tiles are delivered... together with the hollow blocks for the study room wall... our champion tiles. Reminds me of the dumex adverts long long ago... go like a champion go, go like a champion go! heh heh...

xp... dunno whose clothes... xp

Took the chance to sneak a peek at what the floor will look like. Placing four pieces together gives a pretty good preview to what the floor will look like

Toilets... a layer of water proofing before the overlay is carried out...

Prev: Floor Types
Next: Progress Update... wetworks! (part 2)

Floor Types

2006-08-22T01:55:00.000-07:00

Defects are fixed, renovation should start soon. It is time to select a suitable floor for the home. Walking around in Balestier, one would find the convenience of visting the most popular floor supplier around, namely, Hafari, Liang Heng Seng and Soon Bee Huat, located almost side by side to each other.

There so many type of tiles and material to choose from, and we were spoilt for choices... even within the same class of tiles (eg Homogeneous), there are various quality to look out for! sigh~~~ it is a long process to find the right tile for the budget, and the home.

Again it boils down to the wants and the needs of the individual. These are my research info to get one started

MARBLE
Pros
- Natural hard stone that comes in a variety of shades and hue, from off-white to brown, gray or pink.
- Creates a timeless look.
- Flat, smooth surface. Marble can be grinded to make it level, making the joining lines almost invisible, making it look as if only one piece of material is used for the floor
- Cool to the touch, especially suitable for hot climate in Singapore

Cons
- Expensive
- High maintenance.
- Although hard, they are softer than granite, thus more prone to scratches. Easily repaired with a fresh polish.
- Porous by nature, marble stains easily when spills are not cleaned up immediately.

GRANITE
pros
- The hardest stone used for flooring, making it durable to wear and tear
- Granite is a highly polished stone, making it easy to cleaned and maintain
- Cool to the touch, especially suitable for hot climate in Singapore
- Contains more reflective crystals, thus providing more glamour to the overall look of the home
- Usually comes in darker and richer tones, well suited for people who prefer a dramatic design for the home.

cons
- The highly polish surface can also becomes too smooth and slippery which demands additional care when walking on it
- Granite tiles are expensive, prices ranks a close second to Marble.

HOMOGENEOUS, POLISHED
Pro
- Man made material created to be as tough as granite
- A wider range of effects/designs and colors
- Can be polished to make it reflective shine like those of a mirror
- The polish of Homogeneous can last longer than the shine of marble.
- In an event of a breakage (due to fallen objects), unlike ceramics, Homogeneous tiles will not show a tile base/ body of a different color.
- Patterns/ designs are more subtle and predictable, without the ugly crack lines and spots usually found in natural stones
- With much lower water absorption rate and higher density
- cheaper than natural stones

Cons
- Depending on the skill of the tiler, tiles laid may not be even
- Warpage may occur during the process of manufacturing
- Cos it is synthetic, not possible to polish/ grind to make the gaps between slaps to give the seamless look

Ceramics Tiles
Pros
- Low Cost and more valued for money
- The widest popular range of color, texture and design
- Shortest time needed to lay
- The pattern of ceramic can be repetitive and constant, therefore more
acceptable by the majority
- Can be glazed to make it shiny but it's not as long lasting as compare to the polished surface of Homogeneous tiles or natural stones
- Comes in all kind of sizes

Cons
- In an event of a breakage (due to fallen objects), will show the tile base/ body of a different color.

LAMINATES
Pros
- Quite scratch resistance.
- Alternative to parquet
- Easy to install and requires no 'drying' time
- Ideal for bedrooms or raised platform/flooring.
- Creates a 'warm' cozy feeling.
- No hacking is necessary. Can be laid over existing tiles. Only the skirting needs to be removed.

Cons
- Sensation under feet is synthetic.
- May only mop with 'dry-mop'. Water left over may leave watermarks.
- Will discolor if exposed under direct sunlight.
- Depending on color, not ideal for large area, as it may look cheap and synthetic.

Prev: Floors... how to decide?
Next: Progress Update... wetworks!

Floors... how to decide?

2006-08-22T00:59:00.000-07:00

Doing a search on the forum Renotalk forums and this forum Singaporebrides forums would usually bring up quite a few threads on this topic

Anyways... to start you off, there are a few questions you need to ask yourself first
1) What is your renovation budget?
2) Are you the kind of person who is willing to maintain a high maintenance floor?

The norm for most families these days, Homogeneous is a popular choice... and laminates for the bedrooms are a close second

Kitchen, usually use non-slip homogeneous as well

The market rate today...can range anywhere from $2.20 all the way to $15.00, depending on who you get it from, where you get it from and what brand you are getting.

Different colors also command different pricing, whiter colors commanding slightly more than the colored ones within the same range for a particular model

Based on my renovation research, and using the average quotes...
doing laminates, including installation, works out to about $4.50 - $6.00
doing homogeneous for the same area, including labor and wastage, works out to about $5.00 - $6.50
depending on the price of tiles or laminates one chooses... the difference is not really a lot if one is choosing similar priced materials

the cheapest flooring we got for a 128m^2 area, excluding the toilets, is about $5.5-6k
Usually the labor cost vs material cost is about 1:1.5
That is what we were using as the yardstick to compare the different renovation IDs

Polished Homogeneous tiles from which country is good .. China or Malaysia ?
Hmmm... from my various conversations with the different suppliers, we gathered that Malaysia tiles are really dependant on luck... if you happen to get a good batch, all the tiles will be evenly thick, else, it will be a nightmare for the tiler who is going to lay your floor

as for china Homomogeneous, well, according to most of the suppliers, as long as the tiles are in the >$3.00 range, you are quite safe. Cos of a more stringent QC, that is why the price range is around there.
Again, if you decided on a tile around say $2.50 to $2.80, there should not be an issue as well, as the cost of creating the tiles really varies on the color, the whiter it is, the more expensive. QC is still done on those tiles as well, maybe material used is different... I guess

Champion tiles (the brand) are the favourites among the china homo tiles for the plain colored ones, but if you are looking at tiles with patterns or grains, champion will have less choices.

end of the day, as long as you like the tile, and looking at it, you feel that the tile is good, then go for it. You can always tell the sales person to lay at least two pieces of your selected tile on the floor to let you get a general feel of what it would look like.

Point to note though, looking at the tile on the wall and feeling it with your hands, it totally different from looking at it on the floor and stepping and feeling it with your feet!

More on the characteristics of the different tiles and materials available for flooring in my next post!

Prev: Renovation progress Updates... the beginnings...
Next: Floor Types

Renovation progress Updates... the beginnings...

2006-08-21T18:38:00.000-07:00

given the way our flats are built these days, larger beams are needed to take the load of the homes that are being set up... so, unsightly and useless holes in the walls are inevitable.

Lobang covered...

To make the living room more spacious, the doors at the balcony was removed...

Sand and cement everywhere! Crucial ingredients to that marvellous floor!

heh heh... that is my wife to be...
on her rounds of inspection...

Prev: Pre-renovation Defect list
Next: Floors... how to decide?

Pre-renovation Defect list

2006-08-21T18:37:00.000-07:00

This is a particularly good site that we came across during our research. It is a very good starting point to formulate your own checklist to seach for pre-renovation defects before your renovation starts.
Checking for Defects

To get you started, this is the pre-renovation checklist we used.

Defects for HDB unit at:
Address

Living & Dining Room
Does the balcony door panel on the left hand side screech when sliding to open or close?
Does the balcony door have rusty screws on the frame, hinges and lock?
Does the balcony door panel have any dents or scratches in the frame?
Are the main door and gate lock and knob old and rusty looking?
Is the main door is aligned properly? Is there difficulty is locking and unlocking main door?
Does the main door and gate has mouldy hinges
Is the main gate is overall rusty?
Is the main gate easy to close in order to lock?
Are the doorbell switch screws rusty?
Is the main door see thru hole rusty? When looking thru, can you see clearly?
Are there cracks near the balcony frame?
Are there cracks on the wall along the passage way towards the room
Is SCV point outlet is old and mouldy?
Are the screws on the telephone point is old and rusty?
Are the switches near the entrance to the balcony and bedroom is difficult to on or off?
Are the screws on the power sockets rusty?
Does the power box, behind the door, has a cover that is difficult to open or close?

House Hold Shelter
Is the door handle is rusty?
Can the door close smoothly?
Is the door seal is old and flaking?
Is the SCV point outlet is old and mouldy?
Is the power box cover is broken?

Kitchen
Are the screws on the window frame are mouldy or rusty?
Are there any missing screw on the hinges ?
Are there any hollow tiles on all walls of kitchen?
Are the switches are difficult to on or off?

Main and Common Toilet
Is the louver window is difficult to open or close?
Is the window handle bent?
Are there any hollow tiles on all walls of bathroom?
Are there any leaks at the joints of toilet bowl? (indicate with masking tape)
Are there masking tape marks on toilet bowl seat cannot be removed?
Are the magnetic hinges on the top of the toilet door rusty?

Main Bedroom/Common Bedrooms/Study
Are the louvers of window difficult to open and close?
Are there any missing screws on the windows? Any screws not secured?
Are there any rusty or mouldy screws on window hinges and frame?
Is the door magnet is old and rusty?
Are there any cracks and hairline cracks on walls?
Does the ceiling have water mark, indicating seepage?
Is the SCV point outlet is old and mouldy
Are the switches are difficult to on or off

In fact, you can try to download a copy of the defect checklist here:
Download Defect Checklist! Click me!

Hope it is useful for you!
Good luck to your renovations!

Prev: Searching for pre-renovation defects....
Next: Renovation progress Updates... the beginnings...

Searching for pre-renovation defects....

2006-08-18T01:42:00.000-07:00

When we first open the door to our new home, we were ecstatic! This being the biggest investment of our life, the starting point to a journey together! After the initial euphoria of finally stepping into our new home, admiring the home and the various views the different rooms offer, it is time to get down to business! Finding pre-renovation defects!

Nothing is perfect in this world. This is especially true when the product is the result of a combination of people working together to produce it… in this case, our flat.

HDB has put in place procedures to allow the reporting of pre-renovation defects, so that they can do the necessary rectification before renovation starts. This is to reduce any argument you may have with your renovation contractor/ID when you find a defect during the course of your renovation.

It is therefore, VERY, VERY important to make sure you list down ALL defects (as many as you can find) to get the estate manager to fix it for you before your contractor starts the renovation works.

If you have already engaged a contractor/ID, you can compile a pre-renovation defects list together. If not, the following steps will be useful to seek out the various pre-renovation defects when reporting to your branch office.

Arm yourself with a marker, masking tape, a night light that is able to plug into any three-pin socket and a metal rod (spoon, spanner... doesn't matter). The rod is mainly for the purpose of finding hollow tiles.

Now, with a fine tooth comb, go thru the rooms, one by one, and inspect every nook and cranny. Any hairline cracks, any holes that are not suppose to be there, report it.

Try all the switches, ensure that they are easy to switch on and off. Plug in the night light to see if the electrical points are ok. Ensure that the electrical points are not mouldy. Anything you see, that you are not happy with, note it down, and use a masking tape to indicate it clearly. Don't worry about the paint peeling off when the tape is removed, you are gonna be painting the whole house when renovation start anyways.

Check the toilets... ensure that the taps are working and not mouldy. Unless you are going to hack away the existing tiles and re-do them, check the tiles for defects, and with the metal rod, tap lightly on all corners of the tile. Some tiles are hollow only in one part of the whole tile, so it is imperative that you tap all corners of the tile to ensure that they are not hollow.

This is gonna be a tedious affair, we know, but it is important! Your water-heater, bathroom accessories are gonna be mounted on top of these tiles! There were cases where contractors have done up the whole house, attempting to drill holes to mount the bathroom accessories, the tiles for a whole wall has collapsed cos they were hollow.

FYI, we took two days to go thru all the tiles in our home, one for the toilets and another for the kitchen.

Same goes for the kitchen. This is especially important, as your kitchen cabinets will most likely be wall mounted. Any hollow tiles will not be able to take the weight of the wall mount. There has been cases where the cabinets collapsing due to this, so do take note.

If the unit you are getting is a premium one, where the flooring is done as well, ensure you do the same for the floor tiles. Pockets of air trapped in the hollow tiles, may sometime expand due to the hot weather here, causing the tiles to pop when the pressure is too much for the hollow cavity to contain it. So it is important to get these rectified as well.

When HDB tries to build flats quickly at a budget, this kinda workmanship are bound to happen, so get it all fixed before renovation starts.

Some of our defects…

Prev: Pictures of Original Home
Next: Pre-renovation Defect list

Pictures of Original Home

2006-08-17T21:17:00.000-07:00

We have gotten our keys, and so begins our journey towards building our home.

Before that can be done, one has to open the house to check for defects. HDB flats now a days are not built like those of our mom and pop's era, where the finishings are much better.

Welcome to our humble abode...

the balcony where a great view awaits...

     ... and a really beautiful view indeed *grinz*

Walking further in reveals... the passage to the inner sanctum...

and on your left is the Master,where Papa Gorilla and Mama Mushroom rejuvenates...

                                                                                     on your right is the study...

                                             one of the common Bedrooms

                    ... and the place where growling stomachs get tamed

Prev: Renovation Strategy 5 and 6
Next: Searching for pre-renovation defects....

Renovation Strategy 5 and 6

2006-08-16T03:37:00.000-07:00

We have always had problems visualizing what we want to do in our home, especially when you and your significant other cannot seem to communicate to each other the mental picture of what constitutes a comfortable home. Where to put the shoe cabinet? Where to put the TV console? Can a king size fit into my master room?

A real pain, isn't it?

Well, have you ever stand at the void deck of HDB blocks, and look up at the ceiling?
Pay attention to the beam structure... does it look like the outline of the unit just above it?
If one were to stand where one's unit is, you will likely be able to see the same outline of your unit as well, rite?
There you got it, instant lifesize floorplan, right at the very void deck of the block where you bought your unit. With a floor plan in hand, one should be able to imagine where the walls and doors are for the unit purchased, both of you should be able to discuss some of the space layout. With the help of a ruler and some chalk, you could even draw the outline of where the various furniture could be placed!

so Strategy 5, to preview what your unit would look like, go to the void deck of your block, stand directly under the unit you bought, and you get an instant life-sized floor plan to help in your visualization of your new home.

Now, we are all owners of new homes here. With the exception of those who bought resale, the block that our selected unit is in, would most likely be one where everyone is also in the midst of renovation. Taking a walk around your block will see many units in various stages of renovation. R~~ight... you must be thinking, so? what's it to me?

Well, for one, if it is the same block, it is most likely, the same floor layout as the one you selected.

two, if you have not gotten your keys, and would like a preview of your home to be, this is a good chance for you to take a sneak peek!

three, you are in the midst of seeking a renovation ID, well, this would be a good place to start as well, especially when you are looking at some form of finished product... flooring done... floor tiles level... carpentry up... carpentry finishing satisfactory... beautiful design... etc the list is endless. Remember we mentioned to request for viewing of show flats or renovation works in progress? well, you are screening the renovation works before even meeting your "potential" ID/contractor! save you a bunch of time as well! *smiles* If the home is renovated by this particular ID/contractor, there must be something good about them that got them the job, so, it is a very good starting ground for screening renovation contractors.

four, got no idea what to do in your home? well, these home in renovation progress will be a very good starting ground to see what features are suitable for which corner of the home. Nothing beats looking at the real thing!

Usually, there will be people in the homes that you are going to visit, and they are most of the time more than happy to show off the new home to would be neighbours or customers if the fella is a ID/contractor. So the next time you try to visit a home in renovation progress, that shabbily dressed person you are looking at could well be your future neighbour... so Always be polite!

Many weekends, dressed in my singlet and bermudas, I have encountered a few couples who came by my unit, and thought I was the contractor, so they just walked in, took their time to view my unit, and some left without even saying a word of hello or thanks... it was so rude!

Strategy 6, go visiting! visit as many units as you can in your block and the neighbouring blocks as well. This will allow you a better vision of what your home will be like, and best of all, a very good starting ground to source for ideas for renovating your home as well. *smiles*

Prev: How to differentiate from Renovation ID from Contractor??
Next: Pictures of Original Home

How to differentiate from Renovation ID from Contractor??

2006-08-16T03:36:00.001-07:00

Ok... from what we can see during our ID shopping...

Well, contractor now a days also cover everything... from flooring to ceiling to electrical works... unless you look for specialty shops contractor, where they specialize in a particular fixture, eg, wetworks or ceiling and cornices...etc, then there is very little difference now a days, cos contractors are also doing a little bit of design in order to clinch your deal to renovate your house.

One thing with contractor though, no sweet talk about how to layout your house, no lengthy explanation of which material over which material. They generally just take down your requirements, and tell you they will call you soon. That's it, less than half an hour of meeting.

oh, their design is also quite simple, mostly functional pieces, dun expect blow-your-mind designs. Some of them also hire undergraduate interns to do up the design on your house... so it depends largely on your luck whether you get a good design or not.

ID on the other hand, will tell you all the long and short of the designs they do, the material they used, and they will show you album after album of their pride and joy (finished houses renovated by them). They will also go on to tell you about the different things you can do, the themes you can follow, the curvatures and lines of their work and how seamless it seems when you walk in to the house....etc etc... and of course, how they will coordinate the renovation work of your house when you confirm with them.

you will know what we mean when you start to shop around for one.

One thing that puzzles me though, a very sharp contrast between a contractor quote and a ID quote is the pricing of their wetworks and carpentary.
Contractors tend to price their flooring, hacking and wetworks at least slightly more than what an ID would quote. But when it comes to carpentary, their prices only vary about 10% of those that the ID quote.

At the end of the day, the pricing of these contractor-cum-ID renovation packages are very similar to an ID’s. So, one may end up with a contractor that dun charge designer fees but item for item, may be more expensive. Bargaining at the end of the day will bring the pricing much lower than that of an ID though... so be prepared to bargain aggressively for a reasonable pricing! Thus the need to get many quotations to do a price comparison *Grinz*

At end of they day, it still boils down to whether you like the workmanship of the fella you engage or not.

Just to get you started... a summary based on my renovation research

1) Kitchen cabinet cost about $150-230 per foot run of top and bottom cabinets, depending on the material used, laminates vs veneers and whether you are using the same laminates on the inside of the cabinets or not

2) Kitchen tops --> for solid surfaces, it largely depends on the brand you select, it could range anything from $65-145 per foot run
for granite tops, it is ranging from $100 per foot run

3) Floor laminates, typically cost about $4.50-6.50 (inclusive of labor to lay it) depending on the type of laminates you use... varies from brand to brand, thickness of the laminate strips and the type of strips you use (eg, timber, parquet...)

4) Light fixtures typically ranges from $30-45 (including labor to install) depending on the lights you buy, about $40 for a single socket, $50 for a double. $70-90 for a SCV point and $30-40 for a telephone point

5) Grilles for balcony is calculated on a per square foot basis, for a typical EA, installing grilles on all the windows except for the toilets, will cost in the range of $1000.

As for false ceiling, it is also calculated on a per square foot basis, and IDs usually count them in as part of their reno packages, so unless you specifically ask for the price, they usually dun quote

Doing laminate flooring, including installation, works out to about $4.50 - $6.00 per square foot.
Doing homo for the same area, including labor and wastage, works out to about $5.00 - $6.50, depending on the price of tiles or laminates you choose... so the difference is not really a lot if you are choosing similar priced materials, or if you are only covering a small area with laminates (ie, only bedrooms or only one study room).

Prev: Renovation Wants vs Needs
Next: Renovation Strategy 5 and 6

Renovation Wants vs Needs

2006-08-16T03:36:00.000-07:00

Like I said in my earlier postings, we all have a mental picture of what a comfortable home is. And many a time, this mental picture has lots of fixtures which we find lacking in our current homes, or maybe, it is a fixture that we hope to have or feel we need in a new home.

Examples would be kitchen islands, built-in beds/platform beds… etc

So, how does one segregate needs from wants? The usual guide would be if-I-can-live-without-it-without-compromising-my-current-comfort, then that is a want, not a need. *grinz*

Here are a few questions that would help.

Do you have the budget to build everything in your renovation quotation?

Can you live without such a fixture? (ie kitchen island, platform balcony, day beds, feature wall for TV console, marble floor, granite walls… etc)

Is it required? (platforms, platforms bed, custom-made built-in beds… etc)

Can a reasonable replacement be bought commercially at a lower cost? (TV console, MBR bed frame… )

Do you need the fixture today? (MIL wardrobe, feature for TV console, window grilles… etc)

Can this feature wait till the next round when we do reno additions in future?

Sometimes, it is the feasibility of the material used that can help to reduce the
costing.

One good example would be using solid teak wood for all carpentry vs using pine wood and laminates to achieve a similar look, OR

Using white marble flooring for your HDB home vs white Homogeneous tiles (c’mon, you only get to live in that place for 99 years at the most, is such an expense necessary?) OR

Plastering your whole house to ensure that every wall is smooth and straight OR

Hacking the brand new wall tiles in your new home so that you can put in some nicer looking tiles…

The list is endless… so save where you can. Remember, not everything is about looks, a cozy home is what you make of it, not what you put on the walls or the floor.

Of course, a renovation need not only be about needs and not wants. Can you imagine spending more than a year’s worth of salary into renovating your home, and not be able to indulge in a want here or there? With prudence, you can afford to spoil yourself or your spouse with one indulgence… say for example, the Groche shower set, or maybe an exquisite chandelier for the living room…etc

When it comes to renovating the home, it is of course the best if one can afford to do everything one desires to make the home the other heaven on earth… (the first one being in the warm embrace of your significant other *winks*), but reality is never like that. It is never feasible to take a hefty loan to do it, as you will just be making life miserable just to achieve that materially comfortable home.

What you are doing when listing down your renovation requirements, is that the both of you can be discussing on the same wavelength on the various needs of the home, and that one or two indulgence that both of you can afford.

Marriage is a long journey, and building the nest is the first step towards that journey… and that first step alone, is full of obstacles that one must brave to embark on this wonderful journey.

Prev: Renovation Strategy 3 and 4
Next: How to differentiate from Renovation ID from Contractor??

Renovation Strategy 3 and 4

2006-08-16T03:35:00.000-07:00

Then there is the need to seek market pricing… to see if you are being quoted a reasonable price for your renovation needs.

Take for example, flooring. Go to a contractor that only do wetworks and flooring to get a quote for floor only, and you will likely be able to find out the floor area to cover in square feet and the cost of the tiles and workmanship.

Once you got that, take out the yellow pages, make a few calls to a few other contractors. If they are willing to entertain phone queries, make the same enquiries you did earlier. One company I know who is willing to entertain phone queries is White Horse.

Strategy 3, use the yellow pages, it is your best friend in the world. Do a few calls to the specialty shops, and make enquires, then you will know what the specialist are charging, and see if the renovation quotations you get are about the market rate, , you will more or less be able to gauge whether the price quoted to you by your ID is reasonable or not.
The same can be done for carpentry and electrical works.
You can also make enquires about the pricing of electrical works when you are shopping for lights. Many of these light shops do cater electrical services when requested.

Once you decided on a 'reasonable' price comfortable to your pocket, then request to see their show house or at least a flat that they are currently renovating to see if their workmanship is up to your acceptable standards.

This can vary from individual to individual. Some good examples, visiting some of the on-going projects of the recommended IDs in the renovation forums, what was deemed reasonable workmanship by some of the forummers, did not agree with our pre-conception of what good workmanship is about.

Strategy 4, request to see their on-going renovation project first. This is to gauge their workmanship. If you feel their renovation workmanship is not up to your personal acceptable standard, there is no point in going on with the discussions, as you will not likely be engaging them for your renovation works.

Now the next important step, is to separate renovation WANTs and NEEDs. More on that tomorrow... 8D

Prev: Renovation Strategy 1 and 2
Next: Renovation Wants vs Needs

Renovation Strategy 1 and 2

2006-08-16T03:33:00.001-07:00

Well, to get what you want at the budget you have, will require a lot of leg-work to seek out that elusive renovation contractor/ID that will do good work and charge a reasonable price

that is why breaking-down all your renovation requirements into something more detailed, would be able to help you better. Get your first quotation first, using that as a guide, do a little reseach on the web, post questions on the forums and see if there is anyone who did something similar, and compare the pricing.

Visiting renovation blogs also helps, as it lets you visualize what you want to do for a particular space, which some one has already done.

Managing your expectations is very important! We also started off with a dream vision of what our house is gonna look like, but after extensive leg work and research, many of our original renovation plans were scrapped and revised, due to feasibility of the features originally planned.

Difference in material used is also a major cost factor, extreme example would be using marble flooring vs Homogeneous. Things like veneer laminates vs glossy laminates, open concept cupboards vs closed ones also affect the amount of material you use.
PS: Veneers cost a heck of a lot more than normal laminates.

Therefore, Strategy 1, always put down in your list, renovation items for the WHOLE house.

Like we mentioned in an earlier post, there is a certain guide that the renovation contractors and IDs use when if comes to giving you a quotation, especially when it comes to furnishing the whole house. Depending on the home size, they will usually quote withing a certain range. So when you furnish the whole home, you will most likely know what you are gonna be getting, especially when you start scaling down your expectations as the search goes on.

Then come the next most important thing... itemisation
ALWAYS ask for your quotation to be itemised, as much as possible, get him to give you a break-down in the renovation items he is quoting you. Most IDs are likely to quote you based on the renovation package they are offering, and then do a add-on to the package for items you require but is not listed in the original renovation package deal they are offering.

Get a general quote with renovation package and the additionals first. If you are not satisfied that they lump their items in the package, go back to them to get a requote of everything... including the additionals... if the fella is not interested to do it, then you know he/she is not interested in doing your business, go else where where the ID is willing to.
That was what we did when shopping for our renovation ID. This way, you will be able to do a better comparison with all the renovation IDs/contractor you sent your floor plan to.

Once you have more or less shortlisted a few renovation companies, then do a requote for each item, including the foot run and square area calculations before deciding to engage them or not. This will allow you to do a further breakdown of how much they charge for each item, on your own, to do a more comprehensive comparison, and to see if the price is really reasonable. You will be surprise at the difference when you do that.

In our search, we have people quoting us prices for kitchen cabinets that range from $150 to $300 per foot run, and that is only for the bottom cabinet.

Don’t be afraid that the IDs will find you petty. Rather they jin jin ji jiao and we know how much exactly each renovation item cost, then to later have them saying..."hey, your quote did not say this is included... gotta pay $XXX to get it done"

get a general quote with renovation package and additional items first, then do a requote for each item, including the foot run and square area calculations before deciding to engage them or not

so, Strategy 2, ALWAYS ask for your quotation to be itemised, as far as possible.

More in the next post…

Prev: Journey to a comfortable home begins with a single step
Next: Renovation Strategy 3 and 4

Journey to a comfortable home begins with a single step

2006-08-16T03:33:00.000-07:00

We all have a mental picture of what we envision as our dream home. Whether this vision is mutually shared by you or your spouse, will largely depend on how well you can communicate this mental picture to your significant other.

dun worry, if you feel that way you are not alone.

So, first on the list, sit down with your spouse, describe as vividly as possible to him/her, what you see in your mind's eye when you are looking at your new home. Be detailed, from the floor pattern to the colors of the wall to the fixtures you have in mind, list it all down. This is very crucial, as a wrong communication, will lead to many days of un-happy disagreements over what to get and buy.

Now, once the both of you are sharing the same mental picture, make a rough list of what you would like to do in your home. Make sure you furnish every room, nook and cranny with all the furniture you want, all the fixtures you would like to see. The reason is simple. You see, in the market, every renovation ID will have a guideline of how much doing a typical HDB flat will cost, which is what they will usually use when doing an estimation of the renovation quote they give you... and it goes something like this:

3-Room == $15,000 - 24,000
4-Room == $24,000 - 30,000
5-Room == $30,000 - 35,000
Executive == $35,000 & above

so, taking an example of a 4 room flat, even if you were to only furnish the living room, master room and kitchen in your renovation list, you will still be quoted an amount that comes to about $24,000+-

so, now you are at the point where you are going to list down what you want to do for your home… a typical example is this

1. Kitchen Cabinets
2. Laminates for 3 bedrooms
3. Raised Laminate Platform for Living
4. False Celing at Living / Dining / Masterbedroom/Passageway
5. Wiring + Lightings
6. Windows Grille for Balcony

and the questions you need to ask
hmm... how big is your house? new or re-sale?

how many feet of kitchen cabinets are you planning to make? are you making new or replacing the existing ones? are you planning on solid surface top? or granite top? or postform top?

your laminate platform, it really depends on the size and height of the platform you are gonna get that determines the price

are you doing all false ceiling or mix with L-boxes? how bright do you want your house to be? single or double tube downlights?

How many more power sockets do you intend to install? Are you shifting any existing ones? Replacing existing wiring in your home?

how large is your balcony window?

you need to be more specific before you can start to realize a renovation list that is going to be within your budget.

Split your renovations to two main categories, NEED-TO-HAVES vs GOOD-TO-HAVES and you will find streamlining your wants much easier

Prev: First step
Next: Renovation Strategy 1 and 2

First step

2006-08-16T03:32:00.000-07:00

okay... finally, we got all our material organized! We are hoping this renovation blog will be informative, especially to the new couples who just got their homes, and are finding themselves lost in the big world of renovation. We know... we were there. So join us in our journey, and hopefully our knowledge accumulated will be useful to you.

It all began many moons ago when we decided to get a place to call our own. The story goes a longer way back, so to cut the long story short…

We have just confirmed our unit. This is where our humble abode resides...

From the time we confirmed the unit, till the time we actually get the keys, there is a few months for us to ponder over who to engage for our renovation, what to renovate for the home. So the hunt for the elusive CHEAP-AND-GOOD renovation ID/contractor is on.

We have never realised how many renovation IDs are out there till we started on our quest to seek the best ID/contractor to do up our home.

In preparation prior to getting the keys to our new home, we have bought countless renovation magazines, trying to get ideas, and we always thought that we could just go to the renovation ID/contractor, point to a picture and say "nah... that is what i want to do... how much?"

It was really an eye-opening experience, what with the different material used, the space planning involved... aiyoh... susa, I tell you... susa =)
Then you got to start considering where all the little kinck-knacks go, you have to plan for where you additional storage and stuff like that.

Thanks to the many friends we have met in this forum Renotalk forums and this forum Singaporebrides forums, we managed to come up with some renovation strategies to get us started... more on that tomorrow, when I will list the steps that will be helpful when seeking out renovation IDs.

and so the quest to a comfortable home begins...

Prev: My first post in my very own renovation blog!!!
Next: Journey to a comfortable home begins with a single step

My first post in my very own renovation blog!!!

2006-08-16T03:30:00.000-07:00

This is my first blog, and it is gonna be about my home renovations and the research that went into it!
I can't wait to tell my FW about this renovation blog! heh heh heh...

New Job, new home, and of course, with the purchase of the house, new debts and new loans! *sigh~~~*

I have been procastinating over this for a while now, and feel that it is about time I do a little posting here so that I can share my wealth of information from my countless days of research, foot-work and meetings with various renovation IDs, shop retailers and of course, my trusty FW and her FS master!

the journey to a beautiful home, begins with a single step...

Will be sorting out my pictures in the next few days, so look out for the updates!

Regards,
GnM

Next: First step